A4 1.8TMISFIRING??
09-09-2009, 02:09 PM
#13
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I still have not found a problem. Mechanic told me that I got bad piston rings in two cylinders and that new engine is needed, however he offered to buy my car,which sounds suspicious to me. I have been told that problem can be air flow meter,or oxygen sensors,or coolant sensors. I will try within next couple of days and will post the result.
Its definitely not a coil, because I put new coils and swyped them from cylinder to cylinder, but misfire does not move, it stays on the same 2 and 4 cylinder.
Its definitely not a coil, because I put new coils and swyped them from cylinder to cylinder, but misfire does not move, it stays on the same 2 and 4 cylinder.
If you have the proper tools, money for a rebuild kit, and transportation with another vehicle, you could do it all yourself, using a Haynes or Chilton manual.
09-09-2009, 02:37 PM
#14
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Hey all
Found the culprit on my car
Here is what i got as far as compression readings
1- 160
2- 0 (even with other 3 cylinders running)
3- 155
4- 170
So here begins my adventure of taking apart the head and looking at what this could possibly be.
Anyone seen this?
Found the culprit on my car
Here is what i got as far as compression readings
1- 160
2- 0 (even with other 3 cylinders running)
3- 155
4- 170
So here begins my adventure of taking apart the head and looking at what this could possibly be.
Anyone seen this?
09-09-2009, 04:51 PM
#15
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I found a mechanic who will do a engine swap for $500 labor and I also can get an engine with 77000 miles for $700. Now I have a dillema, should I put a different engine or should I rebuild mine? I dont think I can do it myself, but I was quoted $1300 to rebuild it. The engine is on the car which my friend bought on salvage auction. It has been rear ended really hard, but front its all good. However car did not have keys to start it, so he just took everything apart to sell by parts.
I am just worried if that engine with 77000 miles is good, how can I test it without starting? Does anybody know?
I am just worried if that engine with 77000 miles is good, how can I test it without starting? Does anybody know?
09-10-2009, 05:20 AM
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If she can crank still, i would definitely check the compression.
Maybe look for clues inside the car or where the doors open for oil change stickers to see what oil's been used by the garages?
If its non-synthetic i would not touch this engine even if it had 30 000k miles.
Maybe look for clues inside the car or where the doors open for oil change stickers to see what oil's been used by the garages?
If its non-synthetic i would not touch this engine even if it had 30 000k miles.
09-10-2009, 02:53 PM
#18
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Im going to open that sucker and hope its a valve. Total cost is going to be less than 200$ if its a valve.
IF its a piston well its more time and more hassle but its doable.
Might i suggest www.audidiy.com site its very helpful and with pictures if you want to play with your car yourself.
Ill keep you guys posted on what i find
IF its a piston well its more time and more hassle but its doable.
Might i suggest www.audidiy.com site its very helpful and with pictures if you want to play with your car yourself.
Ill keep you guys posted on what i find
09-17-2009, 05:31 PM
#19
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Another mechanic told me that engine is fine, but most likely there is a wire problem somewhere, because misfire is intermediate.
Also, I connected vag-com and drove with it to get live data, when I drive it does not misfire, only when I stop at a traffic light.
When I start driving misfire goes way. This problem is driving me crazy lol cause nobody can figure out the problem.
Also, I connected vag-com and drove with it to get live data, when I drive it does not misfire, only when I stop at a traffic light.
When I start driving misfire goes way. This problem is driving me crazy lol cause nobody can figure out the problem.
09-22-2009, 10:19 PM
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in my problem, the noise is at idle, so when im at a red, or just start the car, it makes the sound. My problem turned out to (hopefully) be the timing chain adjuster. In audis it is hydraulic not spring; so when at idle the lower pressure cause the chain to loosen. hopefully it is just a bad seal inside the chain adjuster. if you could make a video of your engine noise (if you feel it's safe to do so,) that might help a lot.