vtraudt

My 1996 12V makes a metallic engine noise that concerns me. I hope it is not a main bearing.

The noise seems to come from the front of the engine mid to lower part, maybe me more on the driver side.

The last spun bearing I heard sounded even hardy.

This noise is still metallic, and much more pronounced when under load.

Could it be
- water pump or its bearing?
- belt pulley, idler bearing, tensioner?

I have a timing belt change on the 1.8T and assume the 12V is just as suscceptible to this issue as the 1.8T. Car has now 132k miles, unknown (likely lousy) maintenance record. If I want to keep the car much longer, should I contemplate a timing belt job?
I recently put a new/used trans in with 87k, new fluid, spark plugs, replaced vac lines, clean EGR and TB and blocked passage, fixed loose front (lower control arm replaced), fixed/new front speakers.

Still a lot to do (O2 sensor code, ABS light on/code, wrong seats installed (heat does not work, ABS light?, brackets have play, AC not cold (charge or leak or compressor?), Climate Control sometimes not heating much, tons of HVAC errors, ignition lock worn, remote key fob missing, different lock on passenger side than driver side, sunroof switch shows first signs erratic movement).

Also car feels as if it does not have all horses assembled (means not having all the power it should have).

hubturn

Yikes, what does work? I hope you got that thing cheap, because the A/C problems alone are enough to put you in the poor house. Good luck with this project.

vtraudt

I didn't bring my VACcom to the car at purchase time (I learned, believe me). The dealer who sold it to the lady was a total crook:
- fixed exhaust leak by cutting flex pipes off and butcher weld some pipes in
- car was broken in (I still found the glass in the bottom of the passenger side door), lock with non matching key (no key provided)
- dealer took bad seats out and installed some cheap ones he found. Not matching car, seat heater not working, Airbag connection not working
- the best: to mask all the issues, he took the CEL and ABS warning light bulbs out!!!
- The lady had paid $5,000+ !!!

hubturn

I'd think about spending a couple of bucks on a CarFax and see if that will bring up a history, as in whether or not the car has a salvage title or was under water and the crooked dealer did something illegal. Then report the guy to the state dealer licensing authority. I hope you have some sort of 'arrangement' with the lady 'cause you are going to be doing some work on that car!

vtraudt

She bought it, 4 month later transmission went. I bought from her ($1,000), but not doing my job to investigate car (aside from engine).

I put new trans in (twice actually, since first new trans did not work!). THAT works now flawless (after weeks of troubleshooting the bad trans, thinking my fault).

Only then did (peu a peu) the remaining 'issues' surface. At that time I was WAY to far into the car (cost and TIME!) to shift into reverse.

Chassis is solid, though (replace one bad lower control arm, now very tight).

vtraudt

Engine noise (resembling a diesel engine) is still very disconcerting.
Only engine code left (EGR code fixed) is a downstream/rear O2 sensor code:

1 Fault Found:
16538 - Oxygen (Lambda) Sensor B2 S1: No Activity
P0154 - 92-00 - Unknown Error Elaboration

It seems to be coming from the front towards driver side. It does NOT sound as if it is coming from the heads/valves.

I also noticed a very pronounced engine vibration occurring at 1500 rpm (maybe 1450 rpm) (with trans in neutral; haven't tried to detect if present also when driving; will report if it occurs with trans in park, standing).

Is that 'normal' or an indicator for something being off/worn/about to fail?

My biggest concern: sign of failing engine internals? Or pulley, waterpump, timing belt tensioner, etc.? Car has 135k miles (unknown service history), so timing belt job would be recommended soon. But if the internals are soon to fail, I would like to save the time, effort, cost of a timing belt job (obviously).

I bought a cheap stethoscope, will try if that is helpful to locate the source of the noise.

Anything I could try to either rule out certain sources, narrow down the problem, test, document?

Would an uploaded 'sound recording' help?

CRAZY_RUSSIAN

turn you AC off. just head a scare with my, turns out my ac compressor is going south.

vtraudt

I don't think I can currently even run the compressor.
a) it's too cold outside, and compressor does not kick in
b) the AC is not working (not sure why, but likely low pressure and leak in condenser).

I will try to force it to run, but doubtful.

vtraudt

Yesterday, took recorded some video. 3 files recorded with when engine was cold, 1 file when engine was warm.

The 'diesel' sound is less pronounced when warm. I still have not 'located' where the sound is coming from; I would still say front driver side.

Comments, suggestions are welcome.

I plan to take the drive belt off in the next days to eliminate some of the aux systems (with their pulleys, bearings, etc.).
Also will try the stethoscope.

Noise cold:

http://s853.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=MVI_5615.mp4

http://s853.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=MVI_5616.mp4

http://s853.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=MVI_5617.mp4



Noise warm:

http://s853.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=MVI_5619.mp4

vtraudt

Stethoscope did not reveal much.
With drive belt off, noise remained, so aux systems can be ruled out.

Opened up the timing belt covers a bit. Both belts can be pushed in without force by about 20mm. Will upload short video later.

Is that 'normal'?
Or is that an indication that the timing belt is stretched and/or the timing belt tensioner is not tensioning the belt enough anymore (weak or at the end of its travel)?

If not normal, could the sloppy belts be the source of the noise?