95a90

1. I spend around $ 666.96 (SH included) for the cam and $350 for the other parts + cam and crank tool

2. labor cost me $950(you know new york mech and 18 yr exp mech isn't cheap)

3. so the total is about $2000

95a90

Actually my car's idle at 800 rpm and like I said, the engine just vibrate a little stronger (when you lay your arm on the car's door armrest) but it's totally not as bad as some people claimed.( compare a fuji apple to a new zealand apple, you know there's a differnce but it's really very little)

95a90

manhattan, ny

95a90

1. I think the property of idle depends on who's doing the job and how careful the person did the job! I think most people had rough idle probably didn't align the sprocket to the new cam properly, and the no. of teeth of the timing belt is not exact as the original configuration, or maybe they didn't change into new hydraulic lifter, not sure, but to me, my idle is very acceptable (I was a bitch, telling the mech how to mark things, I will explain in part III)

moribundman

I'd kill for idle at 800 RPM

95a90

I think my whole experience is almost 100% perfect, but I notice that 0.5% thing that kind of ruined the perfection. I think the thermostat I ordered from carpartstogo has a different set point, it's telling a higher temp right now (still in normal range, but past the midpoint, before this new thermostat, my temp gauge pointer's always in the lower 1/3) and that triggers the radiator fan almost constantly, hope someone can provide me with a solution(not changing the thermostat, but some other way to control my fan)

anyway

why did I do this mod, mmm, it's becoz I never like cars that torgue out in the low rpm and suck in the high rpm. why, the following is my ****-*** sad story

I used to have a Mitsu 3000 gt vr4 (sold it for college fund 5yrs ago!) that car is like a stronger version of audi quattro (4 wheel drive 320hp), torque out at 3000rpm and power drop at 4000rpm, yah, the pick up is great, kill the supra turbo in 1/4 mile, but once after the 1/4 miles, no power in hi rpm, supra chase right back and leave me in the dust. moral of the story is, you can't race a "torque in the lo rpm car" in situations besides "stop and go race", if I and the supra both start at 100 mile/h, man, I will just keep on seeing dust after dust(you can only enjoy that 13-15 sec of victory from a stop and go situation before your opponent leave you in the dust) You might say hey, why didn't I get a bigger turbo on my vr4 so I wouldn't get raped by the supra, becoz I already know it won't work, my friend had a 450hp (big turbo)vr4 and the same **** still happens, it's still with that same supra (stock), my friend only last 2 more sec than me, the supra still raped him soon after the 1/4.

the final moral of the story is "IF YOU HAVE NO POWER IN THE HIGH RPM AREA, THE RAPE IS INEVITABLE!, AND IF YOU ONLY THINK ABOUT RAISING THE PEAK HP AND DON'T CHANGE THE POWER BAND CHARACTERISTICS, THE RAPE IS STILL INEVITABLE"

I learned that lesson so hard!

beside, you don't need all your power at low rpm, it just spins tires! burning gas for power that you don't really need at lo speed.

and also 3000-3500 , this peak power range is so narrow, I am not michael. schuma whatever, I don't think people can really utilize that.

modding a car is never a straight forward thing, you have consider what will the product really do!
does it raise hp thru out the power curve (like air filters, pre-throttle intake area), or only in certain range (throttle body, post throttle intake area, headers,)

will it drop the torque and raise the hp or vice versa (different exhaust system)

when a performance product says it increase 8hp, it usual means it raise 8hp in a part of the power curve, and not necessarily at the peak hp area, (no after market manufacturer are that rich and nice to spend time to conduct enough research to add power at the peak precisely), most people after they installed the pdt and dyno and found the peak hp to be the same and feeling being cheated, DON'T feel that way.

true account of performance is the total area under the power curve, you have to think about what you really want, which part of the power curve area you want to increase, and find a product for that area (think carefully and research!)

The Turtle

that just doesn't seem worth it IMHO.

SCarGo02

From a cost standpoint, I think you got the most bang for the buck!

nothing

And better low end, which is where you spend most your time.

Jretal

coming from and I guess it all depends on how you use your car. If you drive and live in the low range rpm, then this might not be the greatest idea... OR just live vin diesel style ("a quarter mile at a time"... cheesy F&F quote had to be put here =P) it's not the MOST valuable... but if you track, autocross, always ride in the 4k+ range... this is really valuable!

I know what you mean about the torque curve business. My cousin kinda dragged my other cousin's bf (his sister's bf). My cousin was driving the new S40 T5 (236hp) and cousin's bf was driving a 330ci (225hp-230 hp?). Volvo beat the bimmer off the line no problem... but once the engines started to spool up... we (the volvo) were in the dust.