has anyone here had to replace there egr valve? and if so what were the symptoms?
#2
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I was getting intermittent Check Engine Light 16785 EGR system insufficient flow.This would occur 15 to 20 minutes into a trip when car was warmed up. Usually would trip the light as I accelerated between 2000 - 4000 RPM.Problem would occur more often when it was raining or cold outside. Dealer told me it was probably EGR valve ($220 + labor). It wasn't. Fixed for less than $20. EGR valve is very simple item used on a lot of older VW and Audi motors. Part very rarely fails. If you have more than 70 Kmiles the EGR passage in the manifold gets blocked up with carbon deposits.
#5
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EGR and throttle body gasket from dealer $8, Can of Gumout throttle body cleaner $4. 10 feet of braided vac hose $8.I didn't count the tool prices.Only weird tool you need is a 22mm claw foot wrench to remove the EGR valve(make sure it's an open claw not a flared type). Sears sells a 7/8 (close enough) crow foot for about $7.You take off the throttle body first (4 6mm allen bolts) and then after loosening the heat shield (I have an A4 so it might be a little different)you should have enough room to get the crow foot wrench in there.A universal joint on your socket comes in useful here.Then there are two 10mm hex bolts that hold the EGR on to the manifold. Once you have TB and EGR off there is a passage that goes horizontally under the manifold then makes a right turn up into the inlet manifold just in front of the TB. A lot of crap gets stuck at the point where the EGR gases (and the oil condensates from the plenum) hit the manifold. Using a piece of wire and gumout and using a 1/4 drill bit turned by hand you can clean it out.Clean out the EGR valve too. Vacuum it all out afterwards.Clean everything up ,fit the new gaskets and vacuum line and you are done.Takes a couple of hours.Obviously there is some other junk to remove to get to the TB and EGR but I don't know how your car is laid out under the hood.
#6
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after follwoing Mike's excellent instructions for getting to the bore that needs unplugged, buy 18" of some 1/8"-3/16" braided cable. You know, the kind used on wenches (only smaller) and bicycle locks etc. Unravel the strands at one end and flare them out slightly. Then chuck the other end up in an electric drill. Get the end that has the flared strands into the hole by holding all the strands together with your fingers. Once inside start the electric drill slowly and feed the cable into the port. It completely scrubs the interanl passage clean. Roto-Rooter clean. I mean "clean" as in brand new car clean. It's the best trick in the world for cleaning the EGR passage. No other chemicals required or needed. You will not believe the crap inside that thing! Oh and only power the drill up when feeding the line... not when pulling it back out. It makes a HUGE mess with centrifugal slinging. Voice of experience here.
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#8
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Someone suggested that in earlier post but I did not trust myself with a power drill in case I overdid it.
About how often have you cleaned it? People have told me about 70K miles or so, although I imagine as the motor gets older there is probably more crankcase vent oil getting in.
About how often have you cleaned it? People have told me about 70K miles or so, although I imagine as the motor gets older there is probably more crankcase vent oil getting in.