snowman '92 100

Or you could anodize it! That'll help in cooling, or so I hear.

VAP

I was going to do it til I found this even spendier, more efficient process.

VAP

Thanks Mike!

Jretal

would you include a few drops with each screw

CalG

Best would be to insulate the whole IM.

The air and fuel comming through are the coldest thing the casting is going to see in service. Underhood temperatures will get in from any direction. Air does not hold a lot of BTU's, but the evaporation of the fuel can suck up a lot.

Even intercoolers on turbocharged street engines act mostly as a thermal mass device. "Cooling" by heat exchange occurs after the throttle is lifted at the end of the "blast".

Remember:

Heat does NOT rise! It moves from warmer to colder.

You can't keep cold In, only heat out.

Regards

CalG

CalG

It Feels cool because the inlet charge has taken the heat deep into the engine. I bet there is free HP in insulating the IM all over.

Preserving that Cold Air Inlet!

Think about it!

CalG

CalG

Though black is the color of choice to enhance radiative emission, and should/could improve heat dissipation, the barrier effect of a coat of paint always acts as an insulator.

Best "black body" radiative performance would be just a dusting of any paint.

I still feel painting would be good. As an insulator.

For cosmetic reasons, I have painted the IM with "Hammertone silver gray" that looks pretty nice, (better than corroded castings ;-))and "can't hurt".

Regards

CalG

Regards

CalG

CalG

Remember
The IM is "insulated" from the nasty hot head by none other than the inlet gasket. This paper/composite barrier should be pretty effective at reducing the conductance of heat to the IM.

On some older motor bikes, they placed phenolic blocks between cylinder and carb. for the insulating effect. Now, rubber mounted inlets are universal for motorbikes.

Well, then there are the mounting studs. Oh! Bother!

Decisions, decisions!

CalG

In Anodizing, aluminum is converted to AL2O3. Sapphire.
This conversion penetrates the aluminum surface several thousandths of an inch, depending on the grade of anodizing. Cosmetic conversion being the least. "Hard anodized" is the greatest depth.
Color is added as a dye before sealing the anodized coating.

Al2O3 has a thermal conductivity of 27 watts/meter/degree C
(if I have the units correct)

Aluminum metal has a thermal conductivity value of 205 w/m/degree C .

Eight times better in favor of the raw metal.

That's not a good deal for heat transfer.

So, though the conversion coating may be thin and black, Anodized surfaces may not be better heat transfer surfaces.

Anodizing will act as a barrier to heat absorption for the same reasons.

"Just the facts Ma'm, Just the facts"

YMMV

CalG

VAP

long as the IM is cooled the air entering it shouldn't absorb any additional heat as the intake is closer to 25-35 degrees cooler than ambient on a hot day. When manifold is in primary (low rpm) mode there is likely radiant heat migrating into the intake runners via head and valley pan transfer. However under speed and in secondary (high rpm) switchover mode the incoming air seems to be sufficient to overcome and cool any/all heat that migrates into the IM upper half.

And while insulating the entire IM isn't feasible the underside heatshield I came up with and several here are using is an entirely efficient and adequate piece thats stop most (well in excess of 95%) of all radiated heat. Doesnt address the migratory heat thru IM-to-head mounting flanges but goes a long way towards additional cooling. Relocating that air blocking stock vac reservoir goes a long way as well.

But it's really quite surprising to come off the road course when oil temps are at/over 275F and feel the cool (65-75F) IM top on a 100+ degree day. There's not another car in the pits of any make, turbo or N/A that enjoys those kinds of intake temps.