With the intake manifold workshop completed some thoughts....

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Old 09-03-2008, 07:30 AM
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Default With the intake manifold workshop completed some thoughts....

<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/IMG_8601.jpg">

Though I initially approached this project with trepidation it was really rewarding and fairly easy even for a guy of my so-so mechanical skills. Mance's intake manifold workshop was really helpful and anyone attempting this should read it through a few times. The key thing is to have the time, a well-lit workspace,proper tools and the right abrasives AND following Mance's suggestions.
Here's what I bought/consumed during this project:

-Makita GEO600 die-grinder ($95 on Amazon)- this is the one Joe Mondello uses in his school with students. Lots of air-powered ones available as well w/ ¼" collet:
<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/IMG_8608.jpg">

-In-line rheostat, ABSOLUTELY vital in my opinion. Many tools and abrasives cannot safely be run at the Makita's normal 25,000 rpm speed, often about half that works best.
I got mine on Ebay for around $30, Mondello has the same one for $50 on their site. It gives you 0-25,000 rpm control, a great friend during this project. The only thing better would be a foot controller!:
<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/IMG_8609.jpg">

-Abrasives from Mondello.com: Nice folks and very helpful. I ordered much of what Mance suggested, he was pretty accurate though I did use more flap wheels and fewer Kay Rolls. I used a 3/8" flame burr for gasket matching as per Joe Mondello's suggestion, other choices should work as well. You'll need their mandrel to use Cross-Buffs and though I didn't buy any collet extensions I kinda' wish I had. Though I experimented with a Sears flex shaft for sanding the deep runners it didn't work so well. I did use a long grade 8 bolt with ¼-20 threads for an extension and improvised a way to attach flap wheels but spend the extra money for the Whitney collet extensions Mance suggested. They'll run true at high rpm, important for longer grinder life:

<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/IMG_8611.jpg">

-Make your own flapper rods with 1/4" oak dowels, easy to cut a groove with a band saw and I used these to polish my EGR passage and some other areas. You can even glue sandpaper to these dowels to make sanding tight areas easier, like your own Kay Roll but much smaller in diameter:

<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/IMG_8612-1.jpg">

-A homemade cradle is a great way to work on the manifold, I spent an hour making mine and was very worth it. Used some scrap plywood and screws, no need to get high-tech:

<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/IMG_8604.jpg">

-A trick I devised to sand the deepest lower manifold runners consisted of a narrow piece of nylon webbing long enough to go around the curve in the bottom. I attached 80 grit paper to it and by holding pressure on the manifold with my foot I could move the sanding "belt" back and forth and slowly smooth out the ceiling of each runner. Not the best way perhaps but they're definitely better than before and you can get maintain good pressure on the surface to sand by pulling up, hard to do with flap wheels in such a deep and curved surface:
<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/_MG_7642.jpg">
<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/_MG_7647.jpg">

-If you want to polish your outer runners like mine it's time-consuming but not super hard. Start with 60 grit and work your way down to about 600 -1000 grit wet/dry paper.
You can use a orbital sander if you're careful, I did mine all by hand but either way works. When you're done you can polish it yourself on a bench grinder with a buffing pad and different grades of compound. I saved myself at least $100 doing it myself, I'm glad my dad has an old bench grinder in his shop:

<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/IMG_8605.jpg">

-When you finish up the manifold have the outside and the assorted fasteners bead-blasted, makes them look better than new and really ups the whole appearance of the finished product!:
<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/IMG_8603.jpg">

-Lastly, the Keg-erator for all-important work breaks!:

<img src="http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee127/islingtonboy/_MG_7469-1.jpg">

I may have forgotten a few things but just take your time and you'll be rewarded with a much better-breathing engine and some new mechanical skills as well!
Old 09-03-2008, 08:11 AM
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Default Great post, thanks!

<ul><li><a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=43060">Cheaper source for the speed control.</a></li></ul>
Old 09-03-2008, 08:19 AM
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yours not only flows better but looks great too!
Old 09-03-2008, 08:44 AM
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Shoulda' checked Harbor Freight, damn....
Old 09-03-2008, 09:40 AM
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Default uhhhhhh!! i REALLY need to see about doing this...been wanting to for years but just...

need some place to do it, don't think my appartment is the best place. Also can't get enough money togeather to buy all the stuff. Maybe sell some stuff to get the money
Old 09-03-2008, 01:45 PM
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Very nice...now, INSTALL IT!
Old 09-03-2008, 05:22 PM
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I hear ya, hopefully in the next 2 weeks.
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