just got finished wiring in the 3pin MAF plug, and the 90 is now happily running on a 471 MAF
#1
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just got finished wiring in the 3pin MAF plug, and the 90 is now happily running on a 471 MAF
overall the job was more tedious than difficult. I picked up a 2k adjustable pot from my local electronics people, and managed to scavenge an identical 3pin plug from an old Volvo wiring harness we had laying around.
Basically all it entailed was cutting & splicing 3 of the original wires into the new plug and then wiring up the Pot with the #4 wire (CO fuel-trim potentiometer signal output). Add in a feed from 12v and a route to GND, then adjust the Pot so that it would give me a resistance of ~1500ohms and fired her up.
She started exactly normal with only minor adjustments made to the trim in order to bring the idle in line. It was VERY nice to have the A/F gauge in this instance because as I adjusted the Pot I could watch the indications going rich & lean, as well as observing the dither pattern (if any). I actually used the gauge to get myself to just about where she was pre-MAF change.
So yea, it was a bit of fun but I had to break out the flood lamps as I took to long and darkness overcame me. I can honestly say that I feel a slight improvement. Not drastic or anything, but "get-up & go" feels more strong as well as each gear pull (still slight though) and it definately races through the RPM faster pulling through 2400+. I'm still not convinced that my manifold secondary butterflies work, but that's another fish for a different day.
If others are interested in doing this I'll be more than happy to give guidance. Right now the engine bay kinda in shambles as I need to cleanup a bunch of the wiring. Plus since I didn't have appropriate tubing for the intake run, I made a length of PVC fit as a temporary means until I find money for a S3 hose kit. Needless to say I'm looking forward to the day when I can plug & play a S3 MAF.
check yah later
Basically all it entailed was cutting & splicing 3 of the original wires into the new plug and then wiring up the Pot with the #4 wire (CO fuel-trim potentiometer signal output). Add in a feed from 12v and a route to GND, then adjust the Pot so that it would give me a resistance of ~1500ohms and fired her up.
She started exactly normal with only minor adjustments made to the trim in order to bring the idle in line. It was VERY nice to have the A/F gauge in this instance because as I adjusted the Pot I could watch the indications going rich & lean, as well as observing the dither pattern (if any). I actually used the gauge to get myself to just about where she was pre-MAF change.
So yea, it was a bit of fun but I had to break out the flood lamps as I took to long and darkness overcame me. I can honestly say that I feel a slight improvement. Not drastic or anything, but "get-up & go" feels more strong as well as each gear pull (still slight though) and it definately races through the RPM faster pulling through 2400+. I'm still not convinced that my manifold secondary butterflies work, but that's another fish for a different day.
If others are interested in doing this I'll be more than happy to give guidance. Right now the engine bay kinda in shambles as I need to cleanup a bunch of the wiring. Plus since I didn't have appropriate tubing for the intake run, I made a length of PVC fit as a temporary means until I find money for a S3 hose kit. Needless to say I'm looking forward to the day when I can plug & play a S3 MAF.
check yah later
#2
Finally! ;)
I think you are the first one other than me and patience to do it. You could have used the hose from whatever car you got the MAF from. And you should really get your manifold switchover fixed, this mod really makes the most difference above 4000 rpm.
#3
btw, EVERY 12V MAF has 471 in the part number - even the skinny ones.
The first 3 digits of the part number are a better way to differentiate - 054 for the small bore, 078 for both types of large bore.
#7
I'm actually still running a 078133471 non-A myself.
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/70334/mymaf.jpg"></center><p>
I modified it (90% sampling tube removal, thanks for the tips Mance) back when I thought the housing-only swap was the best I could do. It's working great, with a mini sensor velocity stack from patience providing some enrichment (was running a bit lean without that addition - more air was going through due to the tube removal, but the electronics had no way of knowing that.)
I modified it (90% sampling tube removal, thanks for the tips Mance) back when I thought the housing-only swap was the best I could do. It's working great, with a mini sensor velocity stack from patience providing some enrichment (was running a bit lean without that addition - more air was going through due to the tube removal, but the electronics had no way of knowing that.)
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#9
"A" and "non-A" are still useful to differentiate between different versions of the large bore...
...as the part number for the two different large bore models is otherwise the same. The 078133471A is the most desirable version.
It's just a confusing matter all around.
It's just a confusing matter all around.