Mr. D, this Bud's for you
08-08-2003, 01:51 PM
#1
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Mr. D, this Bud's for you
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/711/hoseends.jpg"></center><p>I know you said you wanted to keep all your old "take-offs" for emissions testing but I think when you see this lil widget in action you'll agree that maybe, just maybe it's worth a broken crankcase breather tube from a junkyard at about $1.00. These hoses never break at the ends but rather always in the middle somewhere so junkyards are rife with broken ones that no one will buy.
Don't even consider a new one as even at the discount houses a new hose runs $40+. And if you get the drivers side hose off a 2.8 12V any year you get both fittings with one hose. The passenger side doesn't work on the valve cover end as its an angle piece and too brittle to drill out and tap (voice of experience here).
Don't even consider a new one as even at the discount houses a new hose runs $40+. And if you get the drivers side hose off a 2.8 12V any year you get both fittings with one hose. The passenger side doesn't work on the valve cover end as its an angle piece and too brittle to drill out and tap (voice of experience here).
08-08-2003, 02:07 PM
#2
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
The "how to" on hose ends...
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/711/ventfittings.jpg"></center><p>
To get to the above fittings does require a little work. The steps below are all ya need to do.
Parts you'll need:
1. 1/2" drill bit and a drill that can chuck a 1/2" drill bit. Or get a 1/2" drill bit with a 1/4" shank.
2. 1/4 NPT tap and some tool to turn the tap. I use a ratcheting tap handle but in a crunch a pair of vise grips locked on to the square shank of the tap will work.
3. Hack saw or hack saw blade.
4. 2 ea 1/4 NPT barb fittings in either straight, 90 degree or 45 degree or any combination of two (depending on your hose routing).
Instructions:
1. With your hack saw or blade (or Dremel etc) cut the quick-disconnect o-ring assembly off each end of the breather hose leaving about 1/8" beyond the lock-ring side supports where they attach to the body.
2. Drill the center bore out to 1/2" diameter with the drill bit. Ignore the appropriate size drill bit written on side of tap as this is plastic and I'm making the rules.
3. Tap the hole all the way until the last tapping thread is all the way down and flush with the clip-on connectors outlet end. If you dont go deep enough the hose barbs will stick out further, have threads showing and look cheesy/fragile and risk not sealing. And if you don't thread deep enough then try to force the fitting in you risk splitting or breaking the fitting.
4. Using the barb of your choice screw it all the way into the new "quick-disconnect" hose fitting.
Thats it... doesn't even require a sealant or teflon tape. Since it's a reasonably soft plastic it seals perfectly with just the NPT threads. I tested it for 48 hours at 120psi and it didnt leak even a gram. And you don't even have to worry with lining up the barbs as once the assembly is clipped onto the valve cover nipple it rotates 360 degrees on the internal o-ring.
The fittings in the pic are 2ea, 1/4 NPT x 3/8" hose barbs in straight, 90 & 45.
Pretty cool huh!?!
To get to the above fittings does require a little work. The steps below are all ya need to do.
Parts you'll need:
1. 1/2" drill bit and a drill that can chuck a 1/2" drill bit. Or get a 1/2" drill bit with a 1/4" shank.
2. 1/4 NPT tap and some tool to turn the tap. I use a ratcheting tap handle but in a crunch a pair of vise grips locked on to the square shank of the tap will work.
3. Hack saw or hack saw blade.
4. 2 ea 1/4 NPT barb fittings in either straight, 90 degree or 45 degree or any combination of two (depending on your hose routing).
Instructions:
1. With your hack saw or blade (or Dremel etc) cut the quick-disconnect o-ring assembly off each end of the breather hose leaving about 1/8" beyond the lock-ring side supports where they attach to the body.
2. Drill the center bore out to 1/2" diameter with the drill bit. Ignore the appropriate size drill bit written on side of tap as this is plastic and I'm making the rules.
3. Tap the hole all the way until the last tapping thread is all the way down and flush with the clip-on connectors outlet end. If you dont go deep enough the hose barbs will stick out further, have threads showing and look cheesy/fragile and risk not sealing. And if you don't thread deep enough then try to force the fitting in you risk splitting or breaking the fitting.
4. Using the barb of your choice screw it all the way into the new "quick-disconnect" hose fitting.
Thats it... doesn't even require a sealant or teflon tape. Since it's a reasonably soft plastic it seals perfectly with just the NPT threads. I tested it for 48 hours at 120psi and it didnt leak even a gram. And you don't even have to worry with lining up the barbs as once the assembly is clipped onto the valve cover nipple it rotates 360 degrees on the internal o-ring.
The fittings in the pic are 2ea, 1/4 NPT x 3/8" hose barbs in straight, 90 & 45.
Pretty cool huh!?!
08-08-2003, 05:44 PM
#4
Wow. Great idea. Makes me wish I had asked the salvage yard to throw in the breather
tubes with the plenum I just bought. Oh, well, maybe I'll get lucky and he sent them anyway. I've never used a tap before but it can't be that hard, right? Thanks for the great write up.
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08-08-2003, 06:50 PM
#8
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
the one thing to remember when tapping plastic is to only hold the piece to be tapped...
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/711/breatheroutlet.jpg"></center><p>
with your hand and a cloth pad to protect your hand and not any type of pliars or vise if you can help it. Every time it gets too tight to turn any further, back the tap all the way out and clear any plastic chips and slivers from the tap and the bore you're tapping. Then re-start the tap until it happens again... and so on and so on as many times as it takes. If you have to cheat and use pliars or channel locks etc only grip the body of the plastic fitting between the lock-ring tab supports on the lower lip. If you use the tab supports to counter the force of the tap one or the other will likely snap or break.
It takes a lot longer than tapping metal but these are plastic, used, heat-fatigued to begin with so they warrant proceeding very slowly and in several steps rather than one forceful grunt trying to get the whole piece tapped in one plunge.
The pic above shows the quick-disconnect with 45* hose barb in the passenger side valve cover. From there to your Jaz catch can it only takes a 4" length of 3/8" hose to reach a corresponding 45* barb in the catch can with no clamps required at either end. And with these fittings there's such a distinct "click" when they push in and seat in the valve cover outlet. Very very snug, precise and oil-tight connection.
with your hand and a cloth pad to protect your hand and not any type of pliars or vise if you can help it. Every time it gets too tight to turn any further, back the tap all the way out and clear any plastic chips and slivers from the tap and the bore you're tapping. Then re-start the tap until it happens again... and so on and so on as many times as it takes. If you have to cheat and use pliars or channel locks etc only grip the body of the plastic fitting between the lock-ring tab supports on the lower lip. If you use the tab supports to counter the force of the tap one or the other will likely snap or break.
It takes a lot longer than tapping metal but these are plastic, used, heat-fatigued to begin with so they warrant proceeding very slowly and in several steps rather than one forceful grunt trying to get the whole piece tapped in one plunge.
The pic above shows the quick-disconnect with 45* hose barb in the passenger side valve cover. From there to your Jaz catch can it only takes a 4" length of 3/8" hose to reach a corresponding 45* barb in the catch can with no clamps required at either end. And with these fittings there's such a distinct "click" when they push in and seat in the valve cover outlet. Very very snug, precise and oil-tight connection.
08-08-2003, 06:59 PM
#9
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
you got the deal of the century!! Those hoses list at the dealership for $52L/$71R...
someone made a huge mistake in your favor. You shoulda bought a Lotto ticket that day. WorldPac has em at $44.20R/$40.17L.
I was gape-jawed at the price for either place.
I was gape-jawed at the price for either place.
