smdepew1976

my audi isn't running right lately......I think it may be the TPS how can i test it and if thats not it what else could it be....oh yeah what it does is...sometimes when you take off it acts just like it not getting enough fuel.....if you just either take you foot all the way off the gas and push back down it stops most of the time....also if you floor it it stops after sputtering a few seconds....it still hits top speed without any trouble and seams to do it less once it's warmed up....these audi parts cost to much to just replace it all for good measure........thanks for any help.....

MM120

I once spent over $300 replacing parts just to find out it was plug wires. The current was jumping from one plug wire to the next one running next to it. It was really cheap quality insulation on the wires. That was on a Pontiac Sunbird, so $300 was a lot for that car. That's probably the cheapest place to start. If it is your wires, I would change the plugs too.

moribundman

I mean, Missile Man, glad to see you around these parts. One of these days I was going to organize a posse to go looking for you in the plains. I hope everything is going well!

MM120

I've just been extra busy lately. I've been lurking the 12V Dev forum periodically, but just haven't had anything worth posting about. I'll be on a little more frequently now.

MM120

<ul><li><a href="http://www.alpc.com/Digital/lamont.htm">Clicky clicky</a></li></ul>

MM120

YGM

moribundman

I thought when you posted that picture of Lamont it was a clue to check my mail. ;-)

MM120

Yep

JWG

You can check on all the major plug mfg web sites for photographs of what a plug should look like. In general, you should have a grey/brown color. If you see black, that's carbon deposits. If it's wet &amp; black, you got an oil consumption problem. If the plug electrodes have worn edges, you need to replace them. etc.

I find that carbon deposits, especially in CA or if you do not run fuel cleaner regularly can cause many idle/hesitation headaches. All of the billions of advertising dollars that oil companies spend to brainwash you that their fuels keep your engine clean fool most people into believing that they do not need to invest in good fuel system cleaners. I would suggest a can of BG44k (about $20 or less on eBay) every oil change, or a good dose of Marvel Mystery Oil into the fuel tank at intervals, or a measured dose of Redline's ST1 at every 10 gallons of fuel, or toulene when you get more advanced. If needed, you can get more aggressive fuel system cleaning at a garage or dealership with a BG, Bilstein, or similar fuel system cleaning machine that hooks in place of your fuel lines and runs the engine on a combustible fuel cleaner.

Then you can start cleaning out the intake system; when did you last change your air filter, clean your TB or your EGR valve??? Often times, when you finally start to look at those parts, a keen eye will allow you to discover a whole bunch of problems with vacuum leaks and other assorted leaks and cracks.

On a tangent, I feel appauled at the outward state of most engines I see. They look so dirty, I would have problems finding anything amiss under the hood. While I do not keep my engine "bling-bling" clean, I generally wipe off the dust and and oil at least once a month, just to have the ability to visually inspect the engine for problems and spray the valley pan area with boiling hot water from the water heater on scalding (a poor man's steam cleaning) once or twice a year to get all of the crap out of there.

After you have done the above, then I would start looking at replacing parts that otherwise show no visual signs of problems, like the plug wires (for which a good set will cost you a pretty penny).

moribundman

By the way, BG44K is not same formula anymore. :-(