jbrentd

I recently aquired a set of used breather hoses so that I can make a set of DIY breather hoses to go with a DIY hose kit. I wanted to keep the orginal set to put back on if I decide to de-mod it later. I'm a little unsure on where to cut the old hoses and I wanted to see some pictures, but I get a lot of red X's when I try searching the archives. If anyone has pictures of their's, it would be greatly appreciated.

Also, in this <a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/12v/msgs/6942.phtml">link</a>, it mentions that the fitting to connect the hose to should be 1/4"NPT X 3/8" hose barb. Is this what I'm looking for?
<img src="http://www.anver.com/images/components/fitting_pg/barbs/a1438b!.jpg">
It looks like the barb end is smaller than the threaded end. Is the hose measured by OD?

EDIGREG

That is the same size fitting as in the pic (1/4"NPT X 3/8")...It should thread into the plastic nicely with some heat. Don't forget to hold the fitting with plyers while heating it ;]
<img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/98377/pcv_npt.jpg">

VAP

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/711/pcvelbows.jpg"></center><p>
and tell you that if you're using 45* OEM "Quik-Lok" valve cover breather ends from a stock hose you'll be fine. If however on the other hand you're using (or will be) straight Quik-Lok connectors then invest in 45* barbs. 45* is whats used on the RS/HVRS and what I use on my valve covers. Either a 90* or a "straight" barb requires the breather hoses be longer and like intake tracts the "shortest distance between 2 points" is always to be preferred. Remember you want the lines to drain-back into valve covers after turning engine off. Otherwise you'll get a puff of blue-smke on start-up from oil pooling/collecting in the breather hose as it clears itself once engine is re-started.

Another good trick is to use slightly larger I.D. hose than the barbs. The Aeroquip SS hose I'm using is 5/8" I.D. The benefit of this is to slow blow-by velocities thru the breather hoses down a little to prevent oil in solid/liquid form from entering recovery sleeve. Too small a line and oil consumption goes up via increased velocity.

Yes, barbed end I.D. will always be smaller than the O.D. NPT threads at opposite end. But on good barbs the I.D. is constant from end-to-end.

Just remember to run as short a line as possible and everything "uphill" from valve cover breather attachments to recovery sleeve and go with as large and I.D. line as you're comfortable with even if you have to use short 1" long pieces of smaller line on the barbs then run larger line over that with a clamp (thats how mine are done under the end couplers).

Bmthorn

Ed, on my 94 there is another breather hose that T's into the left side hose. Did you remove it?

JWG

I have not seen those slick couplers before--as usual, you have a very nice clean set-up.

I did a search for "Quik-Lok" on Google and got musical equipment.

Where may one source all the parts for such a breather line set-up?

Thanks in advance.

VAP

wanting to use braided SS line with a fitting over the end that hides the hose clamp. Basically its "clown-suit" Aeroquip fittings. Real-Deal 5/8" Aeroquip hose but with end-fittings that makes it look semi-sorta real. Only there's no "real-deal" Aeroquip ends made for barb fittings. Also available in blue &amp; chrome.

So, "when in Rome... "<ul><li><a href="http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=400041+302454+115&amp;autoview=sku ">Clown-Suit hose-ends</a></li></ul>

wood_e

and used the original barbs and 5/8" heater hose. Seems to work fine...

jbrentd

I don't technically have them in my hands yet. They are on their way.

EDIGREG

I think only the 95&gt; models had the plastic barbs. The rest of us have to cut the hoses.

EDIGREG

I'm not sure where you mean...?