Rough Idle/ bad stumble on acceleration

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Old 02-11-2009, 03:10 PM
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Default Rough Idle/ bad stumble on acceleration

OK I am not sure where to start. I scanned my car and got the following codes.

The car is a 96 A4 2.8 5-Speed FWD that I bought about 3 months ago and got a CEL starting a few weeks/500+ miles after I got the car.

P0102 guy said it was a maf code.
P0116 Coolant temp out of range so sounds like your right that my sensor might be mad or something.
P0401 EGR Flow insufficient
P0161
P0141
P0158
P0138 All 4 of these were o2 sensor codes. Maybe related to the MAF code and the sensors aren't really bad?

I cleared the codes and the P0102 code wouldn't clear even after removing and cleaning the MAF with cleaner.

When I had the car running if I touched the MAF connector the car will stall. I did clean the connections with contact cleaner and the light was able to be cleared but I got it back about 2 minutes later.

After cleaning the contacts on the MAF I had an issue getting the car to stay running for a few minutes then it worked fine and ater coming back 15 minutes later it was hard to start again. I messed with the connector and it started fine again fine.

I am trying to find a new or even better a cheap used / working MAF to replace and go from there. The o2 sensor codes come back after like 30 minutes of driving but only 2 at a time. I am hoping that the o2's are related to something else so I can avoid replacing all of those at a heavy cost.

Anyone see these issues as common or a good place to start other than the MAF or confirm I should start there?

I am sure this isn't the best way to start in joining conversation around here but hopefully you can forgive me and give some help and maybe someday I can return the favor and help others.
Old 02-11-2009, 04:44 PM
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replace the MAF first, go from there...
Old 02-12-2009, 04:44 AM
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g to 12v.org and throw the codes that way (Is a 1996 odb 1 or 2?)
Old 02-12-2009, 06:32 AM
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Default Re: replace the MAF first, go from there...

Well I just ordered a used MAF with a DOA warranty. Hopefully that resolves some of my problems.

I think it may as I tried runnign the car without the MAF attached yesterday and it seemed to run as it has been. Maybe the MAF si just really shot and it is running on stored ecu fuel/air maps or something.
Old 02-12-2009, 07:24 AM
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did you try cleaning the MAF before you bought a new one?
Old 02-12-2009, 08:38 AM
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Default Re: did you try cleaning the MAF before you bought a new one?

Yes sir. Used contact cleaner on the male and female connectors and MAF cleaner on the elements.
Old 02-12-2009, 08:57 AM
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how did you determine that the MAF was bad?
Old 02-12-2009, 09:28 AM
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Default Re: how did you determine that the MAF was bad?

Going off the codes from the scann (obd2) that shows for the MAF. Was recommended by a few people it is a likely culprit based on other codes I am getting as well. You thinking it is something else. I don't have the details to be able to test the resistance and such of the maf right now to see if it test out as good or bad.
Old 02-12-2009, 12:17 PM
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Default and you said you unhooked the MAF and the 12V ran the same....

If I unhook my MAF the car dies instantly
Old 02-12-2009, 12:26 PM
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Default Re: and you said you unhooked the MAF and the 12V ran the same....

Yes sir.


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