Rough Idle/ bad stumble on acceleration
#21
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Keep us posted. I'm having the exact same issue, and have gone through the same routes as you.
Let me know how it goes after cleaning the egr. I think i might have to do that myself this weekend as well.
Let me know how it goes after cleaning the egr. I think i might have to do that myself this weekend as well.
#22
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if you pull just the EGR all you need is an EGR gasket, if you pull the intake, you will need EGR gasket, intake to head gaskets (x2) and probably injector seals (x12)
#23
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Well thanks for that info. I will start with trying to pull just the EGR and see how cleaned up I can get things. Maybe do a heavy cleaning that way and seaform the thing.
#24
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Well I didn't get the chance to clean the EGR this weekend. I did run a half bottle of Seafoam in the vac lines and half in the gas tank. The stalling has only happened once since then isntead of at every light like before. I think I might seafoam again this coming weekend and do an engine flush and oil change and see where it goes from there. If it is nice enough I mgiht use one of my 4 days off to clean the EGR as well.
I will say that even though the seafoam hasn't completely eliminated the stall problem it sure has helped even out the idle and smooth out the power from a stop.
I will say that even though the seafoam hasn't completely eliminated the stall problem it sure has helped even out the idle and smooth out the power from a stop.
#26
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I never had, that is probably something I should try and pickup this weekend. I just bought the car in November so I didn't do much of the routine maintenance over the winter, the previous ower did good maintenance but if he knoew he was selling it he probably neglected items like that over the past year or two.
I did get the ln 1 warning on my clusted but dont' know exactly what that means is due maintenance wise.
I did get the ln 1 warning on my clusted but dont' know exactly what that means is due maintenance wise.
#27
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So i was having the same issue as you were, and pretty much took the same measures as you.
Replaced the MAF, checked the fuel lines, checked the vac lines, cleaned the TB, seafoamed the car...you name it, i did it.
But the idle issue wouldn't go away. I finally caved in and bought a new Idle Air Control Valve. And although it helped a little, it didn't fix the problem.
I finally gave up, and took it to the dealership to have them run a full diagnostic and see what the hell was going on.
Turns out that while the IACV (that we commonly replace or clean) can help control the idle, it is not responsible for holding the idle at all. Its the idle stabilizer valve that is in the TB (i believe) that is truly responsible for regulating the idle. Turns out my ISV was all kinds of ****ed up, causing the high/rough idle and the stumble on acceleration.
Just beware, because most of the time it doesn't even through a CEL.
Hope this helps!
Replaced the MAF, checked the fuel lines, checked the vac lines, cleaned the TB, seafoamed the car...you name it, i did it.
But the idle issue wouldn't go away. I finally caved in and bought a new Idle Air Control Valve. And although it helped a little, it didn't fix the problem.
I finally gave up, and took it to the dealership to have them run a full diagnostic and see what the hell was going on.
Turns out that while the IACV (that we commonly replace or clean) can help control the idle, it is not responsible for holding the idle at all. Its the idle stabilizer valve that is in the TB (i believe) that is truly responsible for regulating the idle. Turns out my ISV was all kinds of ****ed up, causing the high/rough idle and the stumble on acceleration.
Just beware, because most of the time it doesn't even through a CEL.
Hope this helps!
#29
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thats the same thing. It is the black valve attached to the right hand side of your intake manifold, next to the throttle body. Its a simple valve that is supplied with 12v at idle in order to allow metered air into the manifold so the engine keeps running even though the venturi of the TB are closed.