stripped head bolt, argh!

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Old 06-08-2004, 07:23 AM
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Default stripped head bolt, argh!

So after 10 days of waiting I finally get my special tool to remove the AEB cylinder head I'm working on. I remove the first 9 bolts with relative ease and then the final number 10 strips on me. Tried pounding a bit into it to no avail. Now I'm wondering how feasible it is to completely grind the head of the bolt down. The block is going to be tossed anyway and I was planning on rebuilding/cleaning the head completely before reselling it anyway so metal particles wouldn't be an issue. Just don't want to irreparably damage the head. Not even sure how doable grinding the bolt down would be considering the extremely sparse clearance to the top of it and the slightest bounce of the bit would hit the surrounding area.

what do you guys think?
Old 06-08-2004, 07:27 AM
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Try prying upwards w/small pry bar while turning counter-clockwise before grinding
Old 06-08-2004, 07:31 AM
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Default yeah, was trying to pull the head up but I can't find anyplace to get leverage =/

the angle of this engine just makes it a pain to work around
Old 06-08-2004, 07:37 AM
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Default grind a groove near the bottom of bolt head with Dremel/cut-off disc...

that you can fit the pry bar tip into and lift up on bolt
Old 06-08-2004, 08:00 AM
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Default I've been pounding a flathead screwdriver in between gasket layers for 15 minutes but there is 0

separation. I am splitting the part of the gasket that sticks out but as soon as I reach the engine there's absolutely no movement.

Only thing I can think of is using a sledge but that would definitely damage the metal. last I checked heads and blocks weren't throwaway items once separated.
Old 06-08-2004, 08:17 AM
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Default If the bolt is stripped...

it's no longer tourqued to spec and one bolt of 10 will not have enough leverage to hold the whole head flush.

Point being, keep working on separation of the head and block to get leverage on the bolt because if you grind the bolt I'd bet money that you are still going to have a very tough time seperating the head from the block.

Probably got some sticky dowels or sometihng that, granted, will probably be harder to knock lose with a bolt still in the block.

Try a dead-blow hammer or big rubber mallet and beat the crap out of the sides of the head and then try again.
Old 06-08-2004, 10:10 AM
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Default prying??

Can heads warp by wedging something between the head and block with only one stud still in place?

Can you weld a "handle" onto the stud head?

Something like a slide hammer?

CalG
Old 06-08-2004, 10:17 AM
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It takes a lot of muscle that no human has to wrp a head. Too many edges and too thick.
Old 06-08-2004, 10:40 AM
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Default just grind the head of the bolt down to look like a flat head screwdriver, get your fav lock pliers.

Then clamp 'em down and turn 'em out. Use your dremel and don't be a sissy, just cover everything with a rag, have a vac ready, and don't slip. :-)
Old 06-08-2004, 10:43 AM
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Default the location makes pliars/clamps unusable. It's at the bottom of a shaft 1/2" in diameter

if that. the bolts will barely fit through the opening so no way pliars will


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