Luxus Panzer

Just put my I.M. butterfly valves back in and i did not get the perfectly centered, did not notice until I was on the 4th one. By that time the thread locker was doing its job (on the threads and the butterfly valve "shaft" and it actually broke the head on my #1 Philips when trying to remove the screws. The light shining thru is form a flashlight behind the valve and the valve is as closed as it will go.
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So is the leak of air into the secondary runners during low RPM's going to affect my engines running. i do not know how sensitive the intake is to this kinda thing.

Man I suck

permatex permanent sure works good/fast
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DaveInSaltLake

will a good blast from a MAPP torch soften up the threadlocker?

VAP

you didn't open up or make those bores wider did you? May just be the light shining thru but because those bores are "plate-mated" for diameter they shouldn't be made larger.

VAP

on both sides of the butterfly plates that act as bearings and permit the butterfly shafts to rotate freely.

Luxus Panzer

can you please explain what you mean by "plate-Mated"?

There is no binding; I will push the assembly to extremes to be sure when I go home (at work)

So if it does not bind, then this small leak at low RPMs will not affect the performance of my engine...good to know.

VAP

if it's enlarged or the plate diameter reduced then too much air gets past the plates during low RPM which would lead to reduced low-end torque and poor low-end performance. You can do ANYTHING before/after those plates but absolutely NOTHING to the runner wall ID where the plate sits when fully closed.

Imagine a throttle body butterfly plate that didn't meet the venturi walls when closed. Car wouldn't idle or run very well until high RPMs.

Luxus Panzer

humm, so there will be substantial air getting thru my butterfly's to ruin low end performance with my butterflies like this (off center but not binding)?
(I did NO porting to the "plate matted" size where the butterflys sit, the valves themsels are just on there a bit askew and as such there are cracks where you can see the light getting thru)

I know you are not a physic but you have MANY years exp with this kinda stuff so your opinion is a solid one.

thanks.

Z.

VAP

firstly you've got a light source behind them which could cause gaps to appear larger than they are. Secondly your butterflies may not be in the fully "closed-and-locked" position. Thirdly it may just be an illusion caused by the extreme pic magnification and aggrivated by the lighting.

But in a worst-case scenarion the 12V IM's have a provision for adjustment of butterfly "closed" position on the back near the butterfly linkage that acts as a "stop" when they're fully closed. If the top/botoom were not set up as an "assembled unit" that adjustment may be outta whack... or it could be just a poor adjustment from the factory. There's a small pin back there with a larger round "wafer-like" head. To get more closure you need to tap that pin "in" (towards engine block) a little. To get less closure you need to tap that pin "up" a little from the underside of the IM. The pin is easy to spot as it's what acts as the "stop" for the butterfly linkage thats tops out on that pin when butterflies are fully closed.

Luxus Panzer

a punch.

thanks so much, I know EXACTLEY the pin you mean but NEVER would of thought of it!

Z.

VAP

snapping the head off. And when tapping it from the top try very hard to center the puch in the wafer head or you risk breaking the head off if ya tap it near it's outer edge.

But there's several options for replacing a broken one so the IM is not a paper-weight if it happens.