Update to Allroad transmission mount conversion...
#1
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I completely spaced this last night then lost it so I'm doing it over as it is important.
The stock AR (allroad) mount top can be re-used if ground down around its outside edge. It needn't be as clean or neatly done as this one which I turned down on the lathe. It cant be seen once mounted and no one will ever suspect.
You can also opt to use fender washers instead. If you choose to do so they must be 5-6mm thick and approx 40-50mm diameter with a 14mm thru-hole. You can use 1ea 5mm thick washer or 3ea 2mm washers on each mount but you cannot use less than 5mm thickness or you will have an interference problem and not be able to tighten the center bolt fully. It will feel tight but it's not fully seated.
If you opt to use washers instead of grinding you can also grind down the two plastic "locating prongs" that fit into the holes above and below the thru-hole in this pic. They are not necessary and neither contribute or detract from the conversion.
Just bear in mind it does NOT have to look this good or be pretty. It just must be able to pass thru the fixed mount tang on the sub-frame with about 1/8" clearance all around and be 1/8" to 1/4" thinner than it comes outta the box.
I used washers till I got home last night and machined these. Neither is better/worse than the other. Make it easy on yourself.
I completely spaced this last night then lost it so I'm doing it over as it is important.
The stock AR (allroad) mount top can be re-used if ground down around its outside edge. It needn't be as clean or neatly done as this one which I turned down on the lathe. It cant be seen once mounted and no one will ever suspect.
You can also opt to use fender washers instead. If you choose to do so they must be 5-6mm thick and approx 40-50mm diameter with a 14mm thru-hole. You can use 1ea 5mm thick washer or 3ea 2mm washers on each mount but you cannot use less than 5mm thickness or you will have an interference problem and not be able to tighten the center bolt fully. It will feel tight but it's not fully seated.
If you opt to use washers instead of grinding you can also grind down the two plastic "locating prongs" that fit into the holes above and below the thru-hole in this pic. They are not necessary and neither contribute or detract from the conversion.
Just bear in mind it does NOT have to look this good or be pretty. It just must be able to pass thru the fixed mount tang on the sub-frame with about 1/8" clearance all around and be 1/8" to 1/4" thinner than it comes outta the box.
I used washers till I got home last night and machined these. Neither is better/worse than the other. Make it easy on yourself.
#3
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I was wondering if I can adjust my snub mount with car jacked up only and not on drive-on lift or s'thing like that....I think I will need to readjust it since I installed new tranny mounts month or so ago.
TIA
TIA
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#8
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unlike the earlier mounts which used a "thru-bolt." You're gonna have to trust me on this one. You "only" have the two choices I alluded to. Well I suppose you could heliarch weld the alumnum up then re-machine it down. No, wait that would melt the sealed rubber boot and let the hydraulics leak out. Nevermind. Only 2 choices.
#9
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That would be about 4.75mm. I think it might be easier to cut out "washers" from this then to grind down the stock piece. Could be way off, though.
#10
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3/16" is only 4.76mm thick. You can go a few thou over but NOT under. When you have them in your hand ready to do this you'll see why. And yes its a "go/no-go" situation with just that small a difference.