Error Codes P1358 P302 Help
#1
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Hello everyone,
I just picked up a 2000 Audi A6 2.7T as a work commuter. I have a 50 minute drive both ways, & needed something comfortable. I came across this a couple of days ago. When gas is pressed at all, the car would shake and hesitate. I initially thought it was failing turbo they are original and have 187k on them. But the codes thrown by the check engine light came to be:
P1358 - Coil 2 Groud Issue
P302 - Misfire Cyl 2
So now I think its either a bad coil (does this engine have individual coils per cylinder?) or a loose ground. The loose ground would explain how it only doing the fluttering intermittently. Maybe as I go over road bumps its breaking and connecting the ground. Please help me troubleshoot this issue!
I got a quote for a new Coil as well. It's a Borg Warner E704 - PepBoys price is 58.99.
Would this be OK or is OEM the way to go if I decide to replace the coil? Thanks.
I just picked up a 2000 Audi A6 2.7T as a work commuter. I have a 50 minute drive both ways, & needed something comfortable. I came across this a couple of days ago. When gas is pressed at all, the car would shake and hesitate. I initially thought it was failing turbo they are original and have 187k on them. But the codes thrown by the check engine light came to be:
P1358 - Coil 2 Groud Issue
P302 - Misfire Cyl 2
So now I think its either a bad coil (does this engine have individual coils per cylinder?) or a loose ground. The loose ground would explain how it only doing the fluttering intermittently. Maybe as I go over road bumps its breaking and connecting the ground. Please help me troubleshoot this issue!
I got a quote for a new Coil as well. It's a Borg Warner E704 - PepBoys price is 58.99.
Would this be OK or is OEM the way to go if I decide to replace the coil? Thanks.
#4
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Not quite sure what you meant by the term 'Beru' or what you are referring to with 'boots on all the coils'.
#5
AudiWorld Super User
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its got a miss on cylinder 2, and a coil code. Sooo try swapping 2 coils around and see if the problem follows it, and then replace the coil. if no change, then swap the 2 ignition amplifiers on the airbox and see if the missfire and code jump to a different cylinder, if so than the amplifier is bad.
#6
AudiWorld Super User
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oh and as far as OEM coils, there complete trash, aftermarkets are at least trying to fix there issues, Beru seems to be the best for the money i have found. Myles suck, STI karolyn ones absolutely are garbage. I stopped putting them in cars when every car came back in less than a month missing.
#7
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oh and as far as OEM coils, there complete trash, aftermarkets are at least trying to fix there issues, Beru seems to be the best for the money i have found. Myles suck, STI karolyn ones absolutely are garbage. I stopped putting them in cars when every car came back in less than a month missing.
I had 2 different ICMs one was OEM, the other was BERU. The BERU was the one that was bad & I think the OEM is original.
The car ran absolutely fine initially. Then one night on the hotter side, I went for a grocery run into town, it ended up misfiring BAD & smoking slightly. I took it easy for the ride back. In the morning I tried it again (colder weather) and it was apparently better. Since that one time, It has had no issues. I have run VAG-COM & the codes mentioned here have gone away. I do have an EGT sensor code still. I don't think that's too big of a worry.
As for the single episode of mis-firing - I'm thinking that could be attributed to the ICM not seating properly. The reason the ICMs are on the air box is for cooling with the fresh cold induction air, & if you take apart the air box you will see a heat sink with cooling fins on the inside. That heat sink must mate up well with your ICMs & have even pressure. I put it on in a hurry before work. I think the thermal paste hadn't set in to the gaps since it wasn't exactly a machined mirror surface on both ends. I went back and tightened the bolts holding it down as well in cross pattern for even distribution. I didn't use a torque wrench but I tightened as much as I could just using my finger and thumb on just the socket. Over tightening could EASILY ruin the ICM and make the contact surface uneven.
I recommend anyone having similar problems just take their original and re-seat it to the heat sink using new thermal paste first. If there is warping visible to the eye I might even sand it down slightly and bring to a fine grit re-apply thermal paste & re-seat before scrapping the ICM.
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