vtraudt

Can someone link me to a good 2.7T timing belt write up?

Thanks.

vtraudt

I have heard that the stock PCV system is not ideal for higher boosted 2.7T.
I have found solutions (for example VAST, 034) that just splice a (non vented/sealed) can in. This retains the stock PCV valve as far as I know. Is that valve reliable?

Aside from the fancy tanks ($100-$200): do the cheaper (ebay) cans do job as well?

I have not found a 'kit' that gets rid of the entire system (hoses, PCV, etc). Is there one at reasonable cost (or good, detailed (with material list) DIY?

daof4

https://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng63.shtml

try this link (or type it it )
If it wont work let me know Its a very good write up Photos as well
I have it on my favorites. I could poss send it to you another way

vtraudt

Thanks. What I needed!

vtraudt

I am a bit nervous to follow the directions suggesting to loosen the cam sprockets. The cams are under spring tension. once the sprockets are released, the cam can move any which way they want (or?). Which then requires to take the valve covers off and do a 'ground up timing adjustment'.

What are the accepted 'timing belt change gurus' saying on this subject?

[IMPORTANT NOTE: This is not the correct way to do this, it's important to release the pulleys from the cams to install the belt 100% correctly. It's not difficult, or dangerous to do this. All you need is a 2 arm puller, or the special Audi puller. Loosen the cam pulley bolts with the cam bar in place. Back the bolts out 2 turns, and then pop the pulleys off. It will pop quite dramatically, but no harm will occur. The pulley will now be free to turn on the end of the cam, and this will allow you to install the belt 100% correctly. At this point, you release the tensioner, and then you tighten the cam pulley bolts to 40 lb/ft. ]

Prospeeder

I Change these on a weekley basis. There is nothing to be worried about. The cams have yet to move on me. If your really worried, with the belt off, move the engine slightly off tdc so no piston is all the way up to have any possibilty of damage, pull the pulleys. On install, set it all up, cam pulleys loose, timing bar on, lower timing cover and crank pulley on. Then line up the mark on the crank pulley perfectly with the timing cover. Then just release the tensioner, give it some tension, and tighten the pulleys, then remove the bar! Honestly, i never bother with the crank lock, its a huge pain in the *** on some cars.

zoomzoommp5

You were asking about pcv system, I dont know of a manufacture that makes a good one, but this is what i bought for my Allroad.

http://www.034motorsport.com/engine-...0-p-20193.html

vtraudt

How do run the tank?
Just spliced inline (which hose did you use to splice), or modify the stock system more? Additional backflow valve?
PCV valve replaced?

zoomzoommp5

You can re use some of the factory spider hose assembly. Remove the pressure control valve(pancake valve) and pipe in the provent. You will need some hose to bring it to the provent as its a large unit. It has An internal pressure control valve. I'm still pondering where I really want to pipe the oil drain back into the sump. I'm thinkin of tig welding a spiggit into the dipstick tube. I'm going to place the provent beside the power steering resivour.

vtraudt

Can you keep me posted on your progress? I need to do that on the engine that is going into my allroad very soon.

Why the provent vs. the $30 ebay cans? Do you expect a significant performance difference between them?

Why run the oil back? What I have read so far, its not that much oil accumulating/lost, or? If the can is easy to drain, its not too much work once every month or even longer.