enowb

can some one tell me where is located the crank shaft holder opening
secondly, to change the belt do i have to take out the camshaft sprockets?
thirdly,can some one help enlighten me on how to place the marks on the crankshaft gears.i took off the pulley already is that bad?
also after haven placed the crankshaft on timing marks and tooth belt taken out without ant displacement in cam or crank,is it possible to go out of alliagnment upon raplacement of the belt if nothing moves? plz help i am desperate

DaveInSaltLake

to get to the crank pin opening you have to slide your hand up where the transmission electrical plug is. I pull the plug for a little extra clearance for my big hands. A 10mm socket removes the bolt and plug for the crank lock pin.

the cam sprockets don't need to come "out", though they do need to be pulled with a puller to do the job right.

the motor should be set at TDC (cylinder #3 is actually at TDC when the pin is in) before the belt or crank pulleyis removed. It is possible to rotate the motor and the camshafts in increments if you missed that step. You'll have to put the crank pulley back on with a couple bolts to do that right...and maybe the plastic cover behind the pulley that has the mark on it.

yes, it's possible...and likely...for the cam shafts to rotate after the belt is pulled. You really should have the cam lock tool, too.

There are a few DIY writeups you'll find if you search.

Here are some photos from my last 30V timing belt job on an A4.<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/90655.phtml">https://forums.audiworld.com/a6100/msgs/90655.phtml</a</li></ul>

enowb

ok. i have replaced all the new parts. surprisingly every thing fited tailor perfect without dificulties making me wonder where is the catch.i must admit i have little knowledge of where to put the marks on the cam, but those i put matched after the two crankshaft rotation test post assembly.I had a localy made camshaft locator bar which was used, but it would seem to have made no difference any way. i tried locating the crank lock pin opening after directions from you nice folks, but still could not find it, so i delt without. to be mention is the fact that, upon many 360 turns on the crankshaft post assembly, the belt at certain point seemingly feels kind of less tense on both side from the water pump pulley to the cam sproket left and right, while tension is maintained otherwise elsewhere. should this be of concern or is it a normal finding. i am still afraid to crank the engine, plz i need you opinion and encouragement

enowb

ok. i mounted every thing, drove the car for aprox 15 miles, check engine is now on, ckp/cmp sensor signals out of sequence by on board diagnosis.explanation, timing belt jumpedrobable causes,1) failed cmp/ckp sensor. 2) poor electrical conection. can some one tell me what all these mean? what should i do next

DaveInSaltLake

was the shutter window for the cam position sensor lined up with the magnet on the sensor?

enowb

YES THE LARGE HOLES WHERE BOTH FASING INWARDS THOUGH I NOTICED THE LEFT CAM LOCK WAS SLIGHTLY OFF AT THE TIME I WAS TAKEN OFF THE BELT SO I DESIGNED MY CAM LOCK BAR TO FIT THE SLIGHT ANGLE DIFERENCE. OF NOTE IS THE FACT THAT, THIS ANGLE DIFERENCE WAS IN CORIPONDENCE WITH THE PRECISE CRANK MARKS MATCH. CAN THE CAR BE DRIVEN WHILE I FIGURE OUT WHAT NEXT?

DaveInSaltLake

so, let's see....the crank wasn't locked in exact position and the holes in the cam shaft tabs didnt' line up. crank and cam sensors don't match signals.

...which means your timing is off.

I wouldn't drive mine like that.

Here's a couple pics of where the crank lock threads in. use a 10mm wrench to remove the bolt, pull the plug with your fingers, and thread in the tool.
<img src="http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f174/DavesData2/1999%20A4q%20Silver/misc/DSCN6438.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket">
(that's the motor oil drain plug in the foreground, in case you don't recognize it.)

<img src="http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f174/DavesData2/1999%20A4q%20Silver/misc/DSCN6437.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket">

reman your tool so all the pins are in a straight line. go the distance and pull the sprockets off the camshaft. tighten only after the tensioner is installed and everything else is right.

enowb

men thanx a million. youve gone miles just to help me out. i realy do apreciat this. i hope i will remember to do the same for others thanx

enowb

ok. the car was placed back in service position, access to the timing belt attained, initially it was imposible to get the cam lock tool into position ( after several crank rotation the largger lock plate holes remained slightly, aprox less than 1 inch out of phase). i proceeded to releasing the tension on the belt, with the hex and tension lever lock pin this was achieved, interestingly, tension remained on the belt between the right cam gear and the tensioner roller. i continued with the removal of the tensioner roller, upon removal of the tensioner roller after removal of the cam lock bar, the right cam gear snaped, rotating 180 in the clock wise direction. in composure using a locally made tool, i successfully returned the gear in position. this remained quit unstable as it kept snaping to new position. after removal of belt and repositioning of camp gear into alignment the cam lock bar was placed successfully.i proceeded to removing of the cam bolts. of note is, the right cam bolt plays loosely within the cam ( what is the significance of this?). i proceeded to opening of the right valve cover to determine what could possibly be the internal problem. no abnormalities where found. in doubts i proceeded with the timing procedure which was completed successfully. reassembly of parts was also succesfull. after two 360 rotations test post assembly, the car was started without any dificulties. the engine runs good but for a clicky sound coming form the right valve cover and obvious visible wiggling of the right cam bolt and plate. of note is that, the cam itself does not wiggle. Can someone tell me what all this means? can this be ignored? can the car be driven? plz help.

DaveInSaltLake

holding the gear to the cam is loose?...or is it bent?

what happens when you swap bolts between cams?

are the 2 bolts visibly the same?

don't worry about the cam 'snapping' out of position. that happens on some of my timing belt jobs and you did the right thing by gently pulling it back into position.