enowb

wow thats quick you must be a car guy. ok what i noticed is, the cam bolt on the right side only is loose and plays within the cam. the cam it self is fixed in position. when tighten to the plate and gear it all seems well and tight, but once losen, it plays as if the nut within the cam to which the cam bolt fastens on is alittle bigger than the bolt

enowb

with engine running at idle i observed that both right and left cam bolts and plates wiggle in the same fasion which was reasuring.the nocking sounds are gone,assembly was completed successfully and the car test driven for approx 20miles, no abnormalities have been noted so far and the car feel mush better in terms of response.hopefully this adventure has come to an end. with this, i want to thank all you folks out there for your great contribution and special thanks to Hxgaser of audi forum, DaveInsaltLake, Audi forum and Audi world your special contribution,oppinions and encouragement was my guide throught this adventure

enowb

not soo fast says the car. after driving an additional 10miles approx, the car has thrown a P1337 by OBD11, whats the implication? the car sounds and drives perfect.i do not know what to make of this time, cauz the specific tools 3391 and 3242 where used and i was on mark. what should i do next?

DaveInSaltLake

did you bang it around any? they're fairly fragile after 100k miles of heat and oil.

enowb

i did check and took out the sensor on passanger's side. would that be bank 1? 2 days before i started my project the local mechanic changed the coolant temp sensor, i wonder if he mistakenly pressed on the cam connection just above that sensor.the car seems to drive pretty well, what could happen if i ignor it for a while to see if it is gona reset, or should i go ahead and try substituting the sensor. how does it work anyway?

DaveInSaltLake

the CPS has a magnet glued inside it that senses a window in the metal 'trigger wheel'.

The electrical connectors on the CPS's are particularly fragile and can be troublesome if they're loose.

some have had success cleaning the CPS and trigger wheel, esp if they've been gunked up during other work.

enowb

terminal 1)red +ve
2)green 0
3)black ground
firstly using a multimeter,with harness still connected to sensor and while cranking the engine,voltage activity was messured b/w terminal 1 and 2 which demonstrated activity.next with harness still connected voltage was measured on each terminal.
observation:terminals
1)battery similler volt
2)no volt measured
3)no volt measured
next i unplucked the harness, with ignition on i messured the voltage in all 3 terminals.observation: terminals
1)battery similler volt
2)maximum volt was measured (whats the significans?)
3)no volt measured
can you suggest any from these readings? i honestly cant make anything out of them

enowb

what is the significance if a code previously P1337 CMP sensor BANK 1 short to ground now reads P1338 short to +ve, 200 miles later.would this mean the sensor is bad?