Timing belt replaced now it wont start 2.8 30V
#11
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...the rollers and waterpump must be identical and positioned in exactly the same spot, and the timing must be set correctly to begin with.
Why gamble on all this? Do you really have that much faith in the person who did the belt before you...even if it was the factory (trust me that doesn't mean much)? Why not just use the tools and know that it's right?
Why gamble on all this? Do you really have that much faith in the person who did the belt before you...even if it was the factory (trust me that doesn't mean much)? Why not just use the tools and know that it's right?
#14
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You can't really believe that you are right.
Ever see how much slop there is on the waterpump mounts? You don't think that affects the length that the belt travels to the bank 1 cam?
Why such resistence to doing it right?
Ever see how much slop there is on the waterpump mounts? You don't think that affects the length that the belt travels to the bank 1 cam?
Why such resistence to doing it right?
#15
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It's Alive !
Turns out it was just being difficult, I just needed be more persistant in cranking the engine over. Once it started it now starts easly and runs good.
Turns out it was just being difficult, I just needed be more persistant in cranking the engine over. Once it started it now starts easly and runs good.
#17
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Even the mechanic who did the job noticed that the car felt a noticable difference in additional horsepower after he used the tools to do the TB. My car is a 1999 A6 2.8Q with 68,000 miles. As I believe someone else once said in this forum "By not using the tools you are potentially leaving some horsepower on the table." Which I can say was the case with my car. Why would you want to LOSE horsepower?
#18
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Same thing on the wagon in my post above. It was always weaker than the sedan we had at the same time. No CEL, no problems, just not as powerful. After the belt change, the cars were equal.
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