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96 Audi 4 Quattro

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Old 04-10-2010, 12:19 PM
  #41  
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Well, after several weeks, I got a replacement TCM. Had it shipped COD, and when I opened it the numbers didn't exactly match.

The original was an 8D0 927 156 J, the unit shipped was an 8D0 927 156 T. Is this the triptronic version? Does it matter? Are they interchangeable?

Anyway, put it in and? Voila, I have a pretty respectable shift now; did pause a bit in between gear shifts.

A word of advice to all, do not buy from:
Merchant Account: Chris Dockery Auto Parts!!
He took the money, $145, but did not ship the part!
Guy is out of Ocala, FL. May go by C&C Auto and Performance as well.

I still have no reverse gear, but I have the write up on Transmission Malfunction Switch Replacement. I will have to give that one some thought before I spend another $360 of my daughters money on the car.

And yes, the same old code, P1613 MIL Call-up Circuit Open/Short to B+, came back after the test ride.

I had the Haynes manual, but after so long the library asked that I return it. Does anyone have a write up on the computer relearn sequence? I do recall reading something about this.

As always, and I am really starting to like the car and the engineering, thanks in advance for any help/hints you can provide.

Almost got her mobile in Wiscosin; signing off.
Old 05-25-2010, 01:39 PM
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I am having problems similar to this thread so thought I would just add on to it. I also have a '96 12v quattro (though with a manual 5-speed). The engine was running fine but I blew a transmission and just got done installing a replacement transmission. I got the new tranny all buttoned in, I re-install the battery that I had removed during the work and tried to start it. It cranks over fine, spins fast but is not starting. I removed a plug wire and checked for spark but there is none, it is making no spark from any of the 3 coils. I tried the DIY test of the ICS/POS thingy that is on top of the airbox
(as per https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?p=1535031) and resistence for the 3 ICS circiuts test fine. THere are three yellow ground path wires that run from the coils to the ICS. My understanding is that the ICS connects these to ground (to flow current and charge the coil) and then disrupts the ground connection in response to the ECU signals in order to fire the coils. I tried removing the three coil leads from the ICS and jumpering them (one at a time) directly to ground to try to test the coils, see if I can get them to produce spark (without relying on the ICS to trigger them). To my suprize, I cannot get any of the coils to fire like this. There is definitly + voltage at the coil lead wire, but if I tap it to ground there is no hi-voltage spark produced by the coil. This should work to trigger a sprark from the coil no?? The really unlikely thing is that all three of the coils seem to have died at precisely the same time so this seems very unlikely cause. Any other ideas of what might be keeping coils from sparking, keeping the engine from starting? I read the prior discussion that the security system could possibly cause similar no-start behavior but this seems unlikley. I have locked and unlocked the doors and re-entered the radio security code but no change. In any case, if the security system were disabling the ignition, seems like the coils should still spark when I jumper the ground path lead. Just very wierd that this all started exactly after replacement of the transmission (which had nothing to do with the coils).
I also tried testing the ICS directly by rigging up a 3V flashlight test light(with its own batteries) with one end of the circiut connected to the ICS coil ground path connection, and the other end of the circiut connected to ground at the engine block. The bulb stays "on" like this passing current through the ICS but it does not not flash when I crank the engine. I was thinking that a flashing bulb during cranking should verify that the ICS was working to intermittantly break the circiut across the ICS but it does not seem to be doing this, perhaps the intermittant disconnect is happening too fast for the bulb to dimm and respond or my ICS is just dead?
Thanks for any suggestions.
Old 05-25-2010, 02:07 PM
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That sounds like the Ignition Cotrol Module to me.

Bought the ICU for $45.

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Old 05-26-2010, 05:27 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by grayjay
I am having problems similar to this thread so thought I would just add on to it. I also have a '96 12v quattro (though with a manual 5-speed). The engine was running fine but I blew a transmission and just got done installing a replacement transmission. I got the new tranny all buttoned in, I re-install the battery that I had removed during the work and tried to start it. It cranks over fine, spins fast but is not starting. I removed a plug wire and checked for spark but there is none, it is making no spark from any of the 3 coils. I tried the DIY test of the ICS/POS thingy that is on top of the airbox
(as per https://www.audiworld.com/forums/sho....php?p=1535031) and resistence for the 3 ICS circiuts test fine. THere are three yellow ground path wires that run from the coils to the ICS. My understanding is that the ICS connects these to ground (to flow current and charge the coil) and then disrupts the ground connection in response to the ECU signals in order to fire the coils. I tried removing the three coil leads from the ICS and jumpering them (one at a time) directly to ground to try to test the coils, see if I can get them to produce spark (without relying on the ICS to trigger them). To my suprize, I cannot get any of the coils to fire like this. There is definitly + voltage at the coil lead wire, but if I tap it to ground there is no hi-voltage spark produced by the coil. This should work to trigger a sprark from the coil no?? The really unlikely thing is that all three of the coils seem to have died at precisely the same time so this seems very unlikely cause. Any other ideas of what might be keeping coils from sparking, keeping the engine from starting? I read the prior discussion that the security system could possibly cause similar no-start behavior but this seems unlikley. I have locked and unlocked the doors and re-entered the radio security code but no change. In any case, if the security system were disabling the ignition, seems like the coils should still spark when I jumper the ground path lead. Just very wierd that this all started exactly after replacement of the transmission (which had nothing to do with the coils).
I also tried testing the ICS directly by rigging up a 3V flashlight test light(with its own batteries) with one end of the circiut connected to the ICS coil ground path connection, and the other end of the circiut connected to ground at the engine block. The bulb stays "on" like this passing current through the ICS but it does not not flash when I crank the engine. I was thinking that a flashing bulb during cranking should verify that the ICS was working to intermittantly break the circiut across the ICS but it does not seem to be doing this, perhaps the intermittant disconnect is happening too fast for the bulb to dimm and respond or my ICS is just dead?
Thanks for any suggestions.
Its sounds like your reference sender (AKA: Crank Position Sensor) is not sending data. Without reference sender data the computer will not fire spark in case your timing is off. It is highly likely that while swapping transmissions you damaged the sensor as, if I can recall correctly, the sensor is located above the bell housing on the back of the block.

Replacement sensors can be found here: click me for sensor replacement. I had the same problem in my 12v and my 1.8t. I'm starting to notice that these sensors are very weak.
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Old 05-26-2010, 05:51 PM
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Originally Posted by E96A4Q
Car ran, in one gear it seemed, forward but no reverse. Think I will focus on this and worry about the alternator another day.

No reverse would worry me, because it should work regardless of the transmission control unit, or so I've read. I would consider putting the car up on four reliable jack-stands and checking the ATF level. You'll need a 17mm hex driver to remove the fill/check plug, and a way to pump fluid upwards through a hose into the pan (with the engine running). For topping up, I make a hole in the cap of the plastic ATF container, then put a tight-fitting vinyl hose in the hole that reaches the bottom of the container. Just squeeze the container to force ATF into the fill port.

If this makes the car shift correctly, I would plan on next doing the ATF fluid and filter change. It sounds like double-work, but if the trans has serious problems, you don't want to waste a new filter and 6 qts on it.
Old 06-03-2010, 02:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Chris@ECStuning
Its sounds like your reference sender (AKA: Crank Position Sensor) is not sending data. Without reference sender data the computer will not fire spark in case your timing is off. It is highly likely that while swapping transmissions you damaged the sensor as, if I can recall correctly, the sensor is located above the bell housing on the back of the block.

Replacement sensors can be found here: click me for sensor replacement. I had the same problem in my 12v and my 1.8t. I'm starting to notice that these sensors are very weak.

You were right Chris, turns out I damaged the crank postion sensor, its wire got caught between the tranny and the block when I installed the tranny and sliced the wire resulting in no spark. I was originaly thinking it was the flwheel speed sensor that was damaged as it is much closer to the transmission than the crank sensor (lower left side of engine block). After removing the flywheel speed sensor, it seemed to check out fine but that led me to check and find the crank position sensor wiring. Both of these sensors are identical and seem to be interchangeable (the crank sensor just needs 2 o-rings on it to seal oil that the flywheel speed sensor does not use.)

The bracket that holds the flywheel speed sensor is adjustable via slots for the two bracket mounting bolts. Bently details a procedure requireing two specialized VAG tools to locate the crank at TDC and then accurately position the FW speed sensor relative to the teeth. Not having these tools handy, I just put the flywheen speed sensor on whereever and hoped for the best. It seems to be working but what are the implications of not having this sensor position perfectly adjusted? Seems that the speed sensor and the crank position sensor are two distincly different functions and since the speed sensor cannot detect crank position why would the speed sensor need to be precisly positioned around the flywheel?
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