After having talked to audi junkie, and stfa i found that GC is an incredible oil ...
#1
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i went to my local autozone and they had 12 quarts in stock for 4.50 a qt on sale. So i bought all 12.
I only have two questions now ...
(1) I don't drive my car hard, I redline prob once every few weeks if that, just a daily driver. But even excluding that, how often would you recommend I change the GC every 5-6k?
and (2) I will ask the a6 forum but it is ok to run the GC 0w-30 in the 2.8 v6 ... right? Some random mechanic told my father not to run synthetic in his 2.8 a6.
Thanks guys
I only have two questions now ...
(1) I don't drive my car hard, I redline prob once every few weeks if that, just a daily driver. But even excluding that, how often would you recommend I change the GC every 5-6k?
and (2) I will ask the a6 forum but it is ok to run the GC 0w-30 in the 2.8 v6 ... right? Some random mechanic told my father not to run synthetic in his 2.8 a6.
Thanks guys
#4
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As on the 12V forum (or search) for recommended oil weights. I recall people using heavier weights for the V6's, but the 0W30 may be fine too. I don't know. But running syn in the V6 is no problem at all. Some mechanics don't think it's worth the extra money in a normally aspirated motor, but you're not harming anything.
#5
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For comparison, cSt is the technical visc at +100c, HT/HS is the high temp/high shear rating at +150c. GC makes the same HT/HS rating of 3.6 (to meet VW and ACEA specs) but can do it with a thinner +100c visc base oil. M1 0w-40 is 14.4cSt @+100c, GC is 12cSt but makes the same HT/HS spec. It also does not shear down like M1 does. In fact, M1 0w-40 shear below GC 0w-30 only to rethicken from oxydization for the end of the ACEA sequence to meet spec, yuck. Thinner oil gives better mpg, start-up flow and winter performance. A better oil, I'd pay more for it but that are the same price. Personally, I like time intervals rather than miles for a lot of reasons, let that go for now, but feel VERY comfortable with 4 months intervals in 1.8t, say up to 8000 miles MINIMUM (in a clean engine). I always start the OCI cycle in Dec so fresh oil is in for winter...most (not GC probally) oils loose their cold cranking ratings quite soon in their service. 2x, 3x, 4x a year is the best schedule. VERY few oils gain Porsche Approval, GC is the only 30 weight I know of. I wish I could use it in my RSX, but it takes a 20 weight, another subject. I will use it in the old CR-V. Funny, Fuchs Titan 0w-20, which shares the same exotic methylcrylate base oil as GC, claims "safe in any engine"!!! I wish I could find that stuff.
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A whole Forum for GC? It was, until I added all Euro oils to it.<ul><li><a href="http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=forum&f=51&submit=Go">h ttp://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=forum&f=51&submit=Go</a</li></ul>
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A whole Forum for GC? It was, until I added all Euro oils to it.<ul><li><a href="http://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=forum&f=51&submit=Go">h ttp://theoildrop.server101.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=forum&f=51&submit=Go</a</li></ul>
#7
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8-11k miles no problems. And would you say the 0w-30 is ok to run in the v6 a6 01?
Thanks again audi junkie
Thanks again audi junkie
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#8
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I'm saying if someone was like "hey, I need crazy oil in my V6 because I am a motorhead or drive in artic conditions or subscribe to 10k changes (dealer OC service or whatever) yeah, GC would be my 1st chaoice....I used it when not auto-rxing and I was actually doing dealer service at 6 month intervals then. I would not use it in mom's 4 cyl VW or grandpa's V6 Audi. I believe dino oil is fully sufficient in the V6 when changed at 6000-8000 miles. HM oils are quite desirable too. Something like Maxlife Synth for synth or GTX HM dino would be what I reach for. GC will not cause any leaks or problems though....just not needed. I quit using it even though I had a stash.
#9
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because the way i see it for a buck or 2 more a qt, might as well go with the best, as long as 0w-30 is ok in the v6, then i would like to use it.
#10
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Havoline can be had for as low as $1 a quart or less as well as a lot of oil giveaways and free after rebates....maxlife has a F_A_R right now. That's what I consider to be cost-effective. In my Mother-in-laws 12v V6 A6, I use my $1/gallon Delo 30 and don't feel bad about it. I change it every 4 months. My mom's 4cyl VW gets 6 month changes, reusing the filter...again no problem....she drives like 6000-8000 a year. No synth.