Any way to get a set of S4 aluminum uprights?
02-16-2006, 04:09 PM
#1
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Any way to get a set of S4 aluminum uprights?
I eventually need to replace my passenger side upright/hub carrier. I drilled out a very stuck pinch bolt and removed some of the mount along with the bolt.
I had them on my 2000 S4 so I know they exist.
I had them on my 2000 S4 so I know they exist.
02-16-2006, 04:22 PM
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How much of the upright did you drill?
I can't imagine you took out enough material to justify replacing the upright.
Replacing the upright alone (using an S4 upright) might not be possible. The control arms, axle, swaybar end links, rotor, hub, bearing, etc. are all bolted or hitched to this upright in some fashion. I know a few of those are going to give you headaches unless you also ****** those parts from an S4.
Replacing the upright alone (using an S4 upright) might not be possible. The control arms, axle, swaybar end links, rotor, hub, bearing, etc. are all bolted or hitched to this upright in some fashion. I know a few of those are going to give you headaches unless you also ****** those parts from an S4.
02-17-2006, 07:10 AM
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About 5/32 for a stretch of maybe 1" between the rod mounts
<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/11669/bolt1-small.jpg"></center><p>The bit was 5/16 and about half of it was out of the bolt. I reassembled and I'm driving the vehicle, but it makes me nervous long term.
02-17-2006, 07:22 AM
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Many new parts will be needed....
Wheel bearings are the bolt in type, new hubs are needed, and you'll need B5 S4/B6 brakes. The control arms and tie rod ends should be compatible.
Unless you really have to cut weight out of the car, changing over from steel to aluminum wheel bearing housings is not worth it IMO.
Unless you really have to cut weight out of the car, changing over from steel to aluminum wheel bearing housings is not worth it IMO.
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02-17-2006, 07:26 AM
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Are the outside ends of the upright intact?
If so, I'd probably be okay with that. Just make sure you throw some anti-sieze on the shaft of the new bolt (not the threads) when you install it. The bolts just keep the UCA's attached to the upright, which they want to do under the weight of the vehicle anyway. If there is a little material left between the control arm insertion points, and the material on either end up the upright is intact, it'll probably be fine for the life of the car. If there is any opportunity for play in that bolt, then I would replace the upright.
02-17-2006, 08:06 AM
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No, I didn't have to drill all the way through. The bit was straight for the first
rod and got out of alignment after the midpoint. Luckily I didn't have to drill all the way to the second rod. The bolt is nice and tight.
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