Anyone Put S4 Side skirts on there A4??
05-25-2001, 01:43 PM
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weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee! 900-1100
I will tell you what I did while it is still fresh in my mind.
Removal:
First remove lower door moldings.
Open doors and remove small screw from the front of the moldings( found on the front of the door with the door open) and slide the moldings to the rear and lift off.
Remove the scuff plates.
These are held on by double sided tape and are a real pain in the *** to remove. You will destroy them.
Remove tape residue.
Remove rear flap found in front of rear tire.
Remove bottom three torx head screws from the rear of the front fender liner(if you do not have the S4 liners you will have to trim of the part of the liner that is raised and overlaps the rockers).
Remove the front fender molding.
Go inside the fender and remove the white nylon nut and pull the molding off(some clips may break but you will not need them).
Remove the tape patch/plug found to the rear of the hole that held the molding on.
Remove the rear fender molding.
It pulls off.
Remove the five(per side) body plugs (silver dollar sized)under the rocker area found in the middle of the car.
Just pry these rubber plugs out.
Remove rear body plug found at the rear of the rocker panel.
This tape patch was covered by the rear flap that you removed,just peel it off.
Remove the torx screws from the front lower fender edge.
These screws are found at the bottom of the front lower fender close to the jack point of your car. They will be covered in undercoat. You will need to scrap the undercoat off and dig it out of the screw heads.
The install:
You will have two plastic brackets that are ribbed that go in the place of the two little rear flaps that you removed. They will use the torx head screws(you can use the new screws if you ordered them) that the mudflaps used and two flat headed phillips screws
on the rocker area(one of these screw locations was under the tape patch/plug you removed). These brackets secure the rear of the skirt.
You will have two metal brackets that are shaped like hockey sticks that have threaded studs on them and five holes in them.
These brackets are riveted(You should have ten black rivets) to the rear lower body seam found by the rear jack point. The brackets lay against the seam and holes need to be drilled and the rivets installed to hold the brackets in place. The skirt will have holes in the underside that go over the threaded studs.
You will have four small metal brackets. Two will have two threaded studs and two U shaped cutouts. The other two will have one stud and two holes with sleeve like spacers welded to them.
The brackets with the spacers and one stud go on the body seam of the lower front fender . You removed the torx screws covered in undercoat. The are supposed to screw to the speed nuts that are still in place but I did not have long enough screws so I pulled the speed nuts(hidden by the undercoat) off and used nuts and bolts.
The other two bracket(with the two studs and U shaped cutouts) go on the body seam behind the two brackets you just installed.
I used the skirt to determine the locations and drilled holes and used the new speed nuts and torx screws to secure.
You will have ten(five per side strange looking plastic flat head like clips and ten plastic keyhole looking grommets.
The Keyhole looking units go into the large hole that you exposed in the underside of the rocker when you removed the rubber body plugs. The large tabs of these pieces face the center line of the car(face the drive shaft).
You will have two long plastic strips that are somewhat V shaped. These strips while have some hook and loop pads(like Velcro but plastic) and five holes. They will also have two rows of double sided tape. These strips secure the upper edge of the skirts to the car. The skirts have a hook and loop strip running down the top inside edge of them. You may want to seek another source of info for this step because I was unable to get these strips to attach properly(some off it was due to a previous wreck that kept me from getting the proper alignment). The strips are supposed to attach to the skirts with the hook and loop pads(You have to push hard) and attach the rocker area with the double sided tape. It seems to me that you should place rivets through the strip into the rocker at the holes provided but no rivets were given. I ended up riveting the top edge of the skirts into the door jamb/threshold area. I plan to remove these and use polyurethane adhesive to secure. I would not rec. what I did. Like I said you may want to find another source for this procedure. I know someone that has done it but I could not contact him when I was in the middle of it to ask and now it doesn't matter. I will give you his e-mail if you want,he is a AWer.
You will now install the skirts.
The front of the skirt is the side with the metal bracket that has the two studs on it. These studs go into the two holes in the front fender. The fender liner goes over the skirt( if you have the original A4 fender liner you will see the part you need to trim and how much if you have not done it already).
The rear of the skirt fits into a grove in the plastic bracket that you installed in place of the rear flap and is held in place with torx screws.
The underside of the skirts are held in place by the studs of the metal brackets you installed front and rear( with black domed nuts) and the large plastic screw looking clips.
The plastic screw looking things are made to go into the keyhole looking grommets and turn about 15 degrees to lock into place.
I would study one before you installed it as they can break pretty easy(So I have heard ;-) ). If you installed the grommets with the tabs like I said you should line up the screws so that when you turn them to look them in place all the screw heads line up and run in line with the length of the car. The crew looking clips have a notch cut out in the head that you can use as a ref. mark.
Do not use a screw driver, use a pair of pliers and grasp the slotted part of the screw looking clips to turn them.
At this point you should have everything installed and tightened up ,except the front two studs of the skirt that go through the fender and the front fender liner. You will get to these later.
Lower door molding install:
You can do this one of two ways.
You can install the painted trim onto the brackets and then install the brackets onto the doors(if you do this some lubricant will help , I would suggest the quick detailing wax sprays you can find for use on your paint).
Or, you can slide the brackets onto the doors ,clip the painted trim to them and then install the front retaining screw( I preferred this method).
The doors brackets slide into the tops of the painted moldings and then you push the lower lip of the moldings onto the brackets.
Install the front fender molding by sliding it over the top of the metal bracket ,that has the two studs that go through the front fender, and the two feet into the slots in the skirt. You can now tighten the studs with the two gold colored nuts and install the fender liner.
The rear fender molding goes over the top of the metal bracket found on the rear of the skirts and is held in place with the small rivets provided.
You can now install the scuff plates/door sills. I have not done this because mine have not arrived yet but they do go over the tops of the skirts so they would be the last to go on.
Step back get a drink and relax.
I hope this helped, let me know if you need anything.
I would study all this before you start because while it worked for me some of this may not be "right". I used some tips I got from another plus just looking at the parts.
Good Luck
David
Removal:
First remove lower door moldings.
Open doors and remove small screw from the front of the moldings( found on the front of the door with the door open) and slide the moldings to the rear and lift off.
Remove the scuff plates.
These are held on by double sided tape and are a real pain in the *** to remove. You will destroy them.
Remove tape residue.
Remove rear flap found in front of rear tire.
Remove bottom three torx head screws from the rear of the front fender liner(if you do not have the S4 liners you will have to trim of the part of the liner that is raised and overlaps the rockers).
Remove the front fender molding.
Go inside the fender and remove the white nylon nut and pull the molding off(some clips may break but you will not need them).
Remove the tape patch/plug found to the rear of the hole that held the molding on.
Remove the rear fender molding.
It pulls off.
Remove the five(per side) body plugs (silver dollar sized)under the rocker area found in the middle of the car.
Just pry these rubber plugs out.
Remove rear body plug found at the rear of the rocker panel.
This tape patch was covered by the rear flap that you removed,just peel it off.
Remove the torx screws from the front lower fender edge.
These screws are found at the bottom of the front lower fender close to the jack point of your car. They will be covered in undercoat. You will need to scrap the undercoat off and dig it out of the screw heads.
The install:
You will have two plastic brackets that are ribbed that go in the place of the two little rear flaps that you removed. They will use the torx head screws(you can use the new screws if you ordered them) that the mudflaps used and two flat headed phillips screws
on the rocker area(one of these screw locations was under the tape patch/plug you removed). These brackets secure the rear of the skirt.
You will have two metal brackets that are shaped like hockey sticks that have threaded studs on them and five holes in them.
These brackets are riveted(You should have ten black rivets) to the rear lower body seam found by the rear jack point. The brackets lay against the seam and holes need to be drilled and the rivets installed to hold the brackets in place. The skirt will have holes in the underside that go over the threaded studs.
You will have four small metal brackets. Two will have two threaded studs and two U shaped cutouts. The other two will have one stud and two holes with sleeve like spacers welded to them.
The brackets with the spacers and one stud go on the body seam of the lower front fender . You removed the torx screws covered in undercoat. The are supposed to screw to the speed nuts that are still in place but I did not have long enough screws so I pulled the speed nuts(hidden by the undercoat) off and used nuts and bolts.
The other two bracket(with the two studs and U shaped cutouts) go on the body seam behind the two brackets you just installed.
I used the skirt to determine the locations and drilled holes and used the new speed nuts and torx screws to secure.
You will have ten(five per side strange looking plastic flat head like clips and ten plastic keyhole looking grommets.
The Keyhole looking units go into the large hole that you exposed in the underside of the rocker when you removed the rubber body plugs. The large tabs of these pieces face the center line of the car(face the drive shaft).
You will have two long plastic strips that are somewhat V shaped. These strips while have some hook and loop pads(like Velcro but plastic) and five holes. They will also have two rows of double sided tape. These strips secure the upper edge of the skirts to the car. The skirts have a hook and loop strip running down the top inside edge of them. You may want to seek another source of info for this step because I was unable to get these strips to attach properly(some off it was due to a previous wreck that kept me from getting the proper alignment). The strips are supposed to attach to the skirts with the hook and loop pads(You have to push hard) and attach the rocker area with the double sided tape. It seems to me that you should place rivets through the strip into the rocker at the holes provided but no rivets were given. I ended up riveting the top edge of the skirts into the door jamb/threshold area. I plan to remove these and use polyurethane adhesive to secure. I would not rec. what I did. Like I said you may want to find another source for this procedure. I know someone that has done it but I could not contact him when I was in the middle of it to ask and now it doesn't matter. I will give you his e-mail if you want,he is a AWer.
You will now install the skirts.
The front of the skirt is the side with the metal bracket that has the two studs on it. These studs go into the two holes in the front fender. The fender liner goes over the skirt( if you have the original A4 fender liner you will see the part you need to trim and how much if you have not done it already).
The rear of the skirt fits into a grove in the plastic bracket that you installed in place of the rear flap and is held in place with torx screws.
The underside of the skirts are held in place by the studs of the metal brackets you installed front and rear( with black domed nuts) and the large plastic screw looking clips.
The plastic screw looking things are made to go into the keyhole looking grommets and turn about 15 degrees to lock into place.
I would study one before you installed it as they can break pretty easy(So I have heard ;-) ). If you installed the grommets with the tabs like I said you should line up the screws so that when you turn them to look them in place all the screw heads line up and run in line with the length of the car. The crew looking clips have a notch cut out in the head that you can use as a ref. mark.
Do not use a screw driver, use a pair of pliers and grasp the slotted part of the screw looking clips to turn them.
At this point you should have everything installed and tightened up ,except the front two studs of the skirt that go through the fender and the front fender liner. You will get to these later.
Lower door molding install:
You can do this one of two ways.
You can install the painted trim onto the brackets and then install the brackets onto the doors(if you do this some lubricant will help , I would suggest the quick detailing wax sprays you can find for use on your paint).
Or, you can slide the brackets onto the doors ,clip the painted trim to them and then install the front retaining screw( I preferred this method).
The doors brackets slide into the tops of the painted moldings and then you push the lower lip of the moldings onto the brackets.
Install the front fender molding by sliding it over the top of the metal bracket ,that has the two studs that go through the front fender, and the two feet into the slots in the skirt. You can now tighten the studs with the two gold colored nuts and install the fender liner.
The rear fender molding goes over the top of the metal bracket found on the rear of the skirts and is held in place with the small rivets provided.
You can now install the scuff plates/door sills. I have not done this because mine have not arrived yet but they do go over the tops of the skirts so they would be the last to go on.
Step back get a drink and relax.
I hope this helped, let me know if you need anything.
I would study all this before you start because while it worked for me some of this may not be "right". I used some tips I got from another plus just looking at the parts.
Good Luck
David
05-25-2001, 01:51 PM
#4
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Join Date: Jul 2000
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No I paid about 1100.00 . I think Juan sells 'em for 900.00.
QTY PART # DESC.
1 8D0-853-859-GRU SKIRT
1 " " 860 " "
2 N-902-732-01 RIVET
18 N-908-346-01 NUT
4 N-904-402-01 NUT
4 N-905-743-02 SCREW
1 8D0-853-924-01C HOLD
2 N-016-202-3 RIVET
8 N-907-750-01 SCREW
1 8D0-853-923-01C HOLD
16 N-908-214-01 NUT
1 8D0-853-941 STRIP
1 " " 942 "
10 N-906-349-01 RIVET
10 8D0-854-955-B-01C RING
10 8A0-854-953 COVE
1 8D0-854-973 CLAM
1 " " 974 "
2 N-015-445-2 CLIP
4 N-101-799-01 NUT
2 N-013-969-4 SCRE
1 8D0-854-977 CLAM
1 " " 978 "
1 AKL-448-300-04 FOIL
1 8D0-854-983 CLAM
1 " " 984 "
The following are the Door/fender moldings .
QTY PART#
DESC.
1 8DO-853-491 D O1C Scuff Plate
1 8DO-853-492 D O1C Scuff Plate
1 8D0-853-965-B METAL DOOR STRIP/BRACKET
1 8D0-853-966-B "
1 8D0-853-975-B "
1 8D0-853-976-B "
1 8D0-853-959-A-GRU MOLDINGS FOR ABOVE BRACKETS
1 8D0-853-960-A-GRU "
1 8D0-853-969-A-GRU "
1 8D0-853-970-A-GRU "
4 N-104-596-01 SCREWS TO ATTACHLEADING EDGE OF ABOVE MOLDINGS
26 8D0-853-909-B CLIPS TO ATTACHABOVE BRACKETS TO DOOR SKIN
1 8D0-853-579-C-GRU CAP
1 " " 580 " " "
1 8D0-853-861-A-GRU COVE
1 " " 862 " " "
David
1 8D0-853-859-GRU SKIRT
1 " " 860 " "
2 N-902-732-01 RIVET
18 N-908-346-01 NUT
4 N-904-402-01 NUT
4 N-905-743-02 SCREW
1 8D0-853-924-01C HOLD
2 N-016-202-3 RIVET
8 N-907-750-01 SCREW
1 8D0-853-923-01C HOLD
16 N-908-214-01 NUT
1 8D0-853-941 STRIP
1 " " 942 "
10 N-906-349-01 RIVET
10 8D0-854-955-B-01C RING
10 8A0-854-953 COVE
1 8D0-854-973 CLAM
1 " " 974 "
2 N-015-445-2 CLIP
4 N-101-799-01 NUT
2 N-013-969-4 SCRE
1 8D0-854-977 CLAM
1 " " 978 "
1 AKL-448-300-04 FOIL
1 8D0-854-983 CLAM
1 " " 984 "
The following are the Door/fender moldings .
QTY PART#
DESC.
1 8DO-853-491 D O1C Scuff Plate
1 8DO-853-492 D O1C Scuff Plate
1 8D0-853-965-B METAL DOOR STRIP/BRACKET
1 8D0-853-966-B "
1 8D0-853-975-B "
1 8D0-853-976-B "
1 8D0-853-959-A-GRU MOLDINGS FOR ABOVE BRACKETS
1 8D0-853-960-A-GRU "
1 8D0-853-969-A-GRU "
1 8D0-853-970-A-GRU "
4 N-104-596-01 SCREWS TO ATTACHLEADING EDGE OF ABOVE MOLDINGS
26 8D0-853-909-B CLIPS TO ATTACHABOVE BRACKETS TO DOOR SKIN
1 8D0-853-579-C-GRU CAP
1 " " 580 " " "
1 8D0-853-861-A-GRU COVE
1 " " 862 " " "
David
