velosouljah

Once hydraulic fluid enters the clutch system does it still float back and forth between the braking system and the clutch system or once fluid enters the clutch system is it just there?

Sorry if I'm not making much sense. What I'm getting at is can you bleed just the clutch system and get all new fluid in there or do you need to bleed the entire brake/clutch to get all new fluid in the clutch?

4Driver4

Use a turkey baster to empty the tank, refill and bleed the clutch...or better yet flush the fluid in both systems.

77'911

<center><img src="http://i37.tinypic.com/2s7bbrn.jpg"></center><p>Once the fluid(DOT4) from the brake resv enters into the clutch hydralic line/hose system, its fairly static. This is why they should be flushed periodically(at least every 2 years). I usually flush the systems on the families cars annually. Flushing the clutch system is somewhat similar to flushing the brakes(see pic). I usually enlist a "helper" to pump the clutch pedal, especially when its pressure bled. Getting to the slave bleeder valve on these cars is not too much fun. Its pretty tight at the top of the gearbox.
To get some new fluid through the system, you'll need to clean out the resv and install some fresh DOT4(prefer Pentosin, ATE, etc.). Then, bleed the new fluid through the clutch hydralics.
Regards

velosouljah

but I wanted to mess around and bleed the clutch this weekend.

velosouljah

mean adding pressure to the reservoir to force it through?

FWIW, a friend who has lots of experience bleeding brakes on cars and motorbikes will be over helping me. The only kind of bleeding I've done involves red fluid and hurts real bad...

@wesome

remove coolant tank. You can bleed from up top =)

@wesome

9 mm iirc

AudiMick

Not pretty and brake fluid burns paint.

velosouljah

just checking but that will work on 30V from top?

@wesome

i think it would