Broke bolt in cylinder head!
#1
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Broke bolt in cylinder head!
I had a on going coolant leak and eventually found out that it was dripping from the coolant flange that connects to the cylinder head. With a new o-ring and new coolant flange i tightened the bolts and broke the head of the bolt. So this brings me to removing my cylinder head this weekend. I've already bought all the gaskets required for removing the head along with new headbolts and the polydrive socket. Thought id do a TB job as well so i'll be purchasing the tb kit from ecs. Is there anything else that i should purchase for removing the head?
My main concern is removing the broken bolt. For anyone who's had experience with removing bolts, would you suggest that i take the head to a shop and have the bolt removed OR attempt to do it myself? if i decide to remove it myself, any bit/tool/technique recommendations/advice?
I called 3 shops in nyc and their estimated price was $100.
TIA, any help would be absolutely appreciated.
01 A4 1.8T tip
My main concern is removing the broken bolt. For anyone who's had experience with removing bolts, would you suggest that i take the head to a shop and have the bolt removed OR attempt to do it myself? if i decide to remove it myself, any bit/tool/technique recommendations/advice?
I called 3 shops in nyc and their estimated price was $100.
TIA, any help would be absolutely appreciated.
01 A4 1.8T tip
#3
A 5/32 left handed colbalt drill bit. Sometimes when you are drilling, it heats up enough that the bit will grab the bolt and spin it out.Or you need a extractor. The best one for the job is a square one that is about 2 inches long. It will have a reverse spiral at the working end. This style does not cause as much outward pressue to the bolt so that you are not wedging it against the block. The Snap-on number for the bit is DBCL5/32 and SR4A for the extractor which has the RH drill size imprinted on it. Best bet according to machine shop is extractor.As 4D4 suggests a torque wrench should be in all DIY toolboxes.
Last edited by Gomer; 03-25-2010 at 01:38 PM.
#5
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Thanks for the helpful responses. I do have a torque wrench and a drill. I've been thinking about purchasing a drill press to do the job as well unless you think that I may be going overboard. Homedepot sells extractors that seem to match the snap-on description though i forgot the brands they carry (perhaps black & decker was one of them). I know snap-on is durable, but i don't have instant access to their products. Does brand matter?
Thanks once again!
Thanks once again!
#6
The quality does matter but you probably will be okay with a B&D extractor. If you are going to buy a drill press then you might as well take it to a machine shop and save the money, unless you have other uses for it. Buy a Right Angle drill and do it right on the car as 4D4 suggested.Probably have more uses for a RA drill than press.If that does not work then remove head and take it to shop as a last resort.You have to center the drill bit on the stud, center punch or guide of some sort depending on where stud broke in relation to surface area.Shoot it up with some PB blaster and let it soak.Then tap extractor in and pray to the Audi Gods, [always works for me].
#7
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lol alright I'll take your advice, i feel somewhat uneasy using a drill without being able to directly see the bolt but I'll update with my (hopefully successful) progress.
Numerous thanks!
Numerous thanks!
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Update
Victory was mine!
I wasn't able to use a right angle drill, it was waaay to tight let alone adding a bit or extractor AND the space needed for the bolt itself after removal. I ended up removing the head for the first time, (fun experience), then used a pistol grip drill with a left handed cobalt bit (unfortunately didn't grip enough to remove the bolt) so i used a bolt extractor after the drilled hole was deep enough, (prayed like you suggested) and VOILA it was out!
Good thing i decided to remove the head, i came across some dirty pink lemonade
I wasn't able to use a right angle drill, it was waaay to tight let alone adding a bit or extractor AND the space needed for the bolt itself after removal. I ended up removing the head for the first time, (fun experience), then used a pistol grip drill with a left handed cobalt bit (unfortunately didn't grip enough to remove the bolt) so i used a bolt extractor after the drilled hole was deep enough, (prayed like you suggested) and VOILA it was out!
Good thing i decided to remove the head, i came across some dirty pink lemonade
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Nice job. So you know, there are people who have the tools to zap bolts out that turn them into dust, leaving the threads just as they were. If you ever get that stuck....those are the people to call.