Mr.D-'97 A4q 12v

I replaced the "load reduction relay" and the dealer replaced the ignition switch today via recall and the car still will not start. The dealer said its the starter but I have my doubts. There had to have been another issue because I doubt a bad starter would have caused the electrical issues I was having. Unless the bad ignition switch fried the starter somehow. But wouldn't the starter still be making noises? I am going to test the leads going to the starter to see if its actually getting juice.

I checked the two large fuses under the dash while I was in there and neither were blown. Does anyone have any other suggestions? Is there any other fuses or relays I should check?

I don't think its the battery because it still reads 12 volts when in the on position and it read 14 volts when running so the altenator should still be good, too. Plus it keeps running.

I was able to push start the car again and everything else appears working fine, it just won't start.

Thanks!<ul><li><a href="https://forums.audiworld.com/a4/msgs/2824030.phtml">Original Post</a></li></ul>

4Driver4

Given what you have replaced, there is a strong possibility that the starter is bad. A bad ignition switch that does not properly return from the "start" position combined with an inattentive operator often kills a starter.

I'd check for power at the start when the key is turned to "start".

BTW, a bad x-relay will not stop the engine from cranking.

computrtutr

I have an A4 and I have a solid suggestion for you: DON'T HAVE THE DEALER DIAGNOSE IT. You have been warned. Here's why I give that advice:

I had an electrical issue. I really noticed it when I was cruising down the hiway at 90 and the battery died. The alternator was a likely starting point, so I replaced the alt and batt. It happened again the next day. Both alt and batt were fried. Got them replaced under warranty. Same thing the next day. I took it to the dealer a few months later, after I had saved up $500 for what I figured would be pretty advanced diagnosis of the electrical system. They did the same things that I had told them didn't work, plus they made my wife do the legwork. I couldn't because I had to work of course. They finally told me that the next step was to replace parts... starting with a $2000 cost to replace the IC. They said the excitation circuit was the problem, and that replacement was the only solution. I told them to shove it and took the car to Ringtec in Roswell, GA. Paul Meredith looked at the car, agreeing that it could not be the IC. In the process of his once-over, he found some things on the verge of failing that the dealer had missed, going so far as to provide proof (He showed me the gasket material plugging my oil pump, etc). He felt bad not having isolated the problem, gave me a price break on the work he did, and figured out at the 11th hour that the starter was randomly engaging, overloading the electrical system, etc. I do applaud everything about they way he treated me, which I mention because that's really how I should have been treated by the dealer. I also learned that the starter can be an invisible source of electrica problems.


If the car won't start, try running a continuity tester from the + batt term to where the big wire attaches to the starter. If you're getting a click but no turnover, check the starter solenoid. can you turn the engine by hand? maybe its seized... Those are a few nonconventional ways to look at it. Post on your progress. Good luck.