TM

Why is it that the NeuSpeed chip is a .8 bar that offers 195 HP, and the Wet chip is a 1.0 bar that offers 200 HP, and the TAP chip is also a .8 bar that offers 190 HP (+8 with the filter total 198)?<br>It seems to me that if you're getting 14+ lbs of boost from a 1.0 bar chip, you would get more than 5-10 HP over an 11 lb of boost (.8 bar) chip.<br>If that is the case, the NeuSpeed P-chip looks like a no brainer. You get 195 HP (or they say), run 11-12 lbs of boost so it's not such a strain on your car as a 1.0 bar chip, and it's only $169 from GreedSpeed. It also is convenient that I live in the same city as GreedSpeed and only 5 miles from NeuSpeed.

Rich L.

It is tough to compare hp ratings from the different tuners. They each use their own dyno and dyno brands make a big difference in the numbers that are generated.<p>This is why a head-to-head comparison would be a great thing.<p>Rich<br>1.8TAQMS APR<br>

MartinR

Horsepower, IMO is not a key thing for a street car. What is key is torque, what rpm is max torque and what is the shape of the torque curve. Some of these guys sacrifice torque to get <br>high Horsepower numbers for marketing. Also, as stated, I would take all these numbers with a grain of salt so to speak, as you don't know conditions, dynos etc etc

ErikR

Torque is what you are after, hp is irrelevant. Dynos and dyno runner are notorious for variation and inflating numbers.<p>Maybe you are new to the list? <p>Since hp is based on the rpm, that is where the REAL wear comes in. An engine that the torque tops out at 6500 rpm will last much longer than a 7500 rpm (torque peak) motor. Boost level is absolutely irrelevant to durability in THIS motor (unless you are pinging/knocking). <p>Daily mantra: NO BLOWN KKK 03 TURBOS (1 potentially) or MOTORS from chipping. Wastegate rods breaking not relevant since they happen in the non-chipped cars.

kj

also, air is only one part of the equation, you also have to increase timing and fuel. I have the Neuspeed .8Bar and have driven other chips, there is barely any noticable difference between them-- but a HUGE difference from stock. I would concern myself with convenience and price at StageI, unless you are going for Stage II and beyond where the tuner can make a real impact.

MichaelB

As far as I know, dynos are ALL fairly accurate devices. Even different brands should provide readings within a certain window of accuracy. I think what is more important is to find out just "where" the power is being developed, by looking at the graphs. Saying a chip adds 50 hp doesn't say a whole lot. If it is only making an additional 50 hp at a spot in the rpm range that is 300 rpm's past the factory set rev limiter, what good is that going to do in daily driving? Not a whole lot. I'll take a chip that makes a modest increase in power throughout the entire rpm range over a chip that makes more peak hp at the very upper limit of the rpm range any day!<p>I do agree that a head-to-head comparison would be a great thing. However, I assume you mean head to head with the same car on the same dyno. Even different cars of the same model on the same dyno will produce different numbers.<p>Mike

Rich L.

I asked this question of one of the tuners and he told me about two very different types of dynos. I forget the details, but the result is that the torque and hp numbers from each type cannot really be compared.<p>Yes, this is hearsay (heresy) but he convinced me that his lower published numbers meant little to the performance of the chip.<p>Rich<br>

Paul Storaasli

Dynos can only figure out the HP at the wheels, not at the flyweel. Tuners quote the HP at the flywheel, though. There is a factor between them. I have heard you lose around 15% with FWD and 20% with AWD. How do they really determine this? I would assume they determine it by running a stock car at the HP peak on a dyno, however this may be a factor that can be fudged. I wish everybody just worked in terms or toque at the wheels, not HP at the flywheel.