Clutch Woes - Please Help!
#1
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I know there has been a rash of clutch questions lately, but I gotta add one more 'cause this one really irks me. I talked about my problem a little bit in a different clutch post yesterday, but here are more details and some specific questions.
I took my car in for service last July at around 50k and complained that my clutch grabbed really high (it had been doing that for the two years that I owned the car). The service manager called me and said that it was slipping in 5th gear and that they would replace the clutch....great! I got the car back and got the "easy does it for 500mi" speech and got in my car and drove away. The clutch grabbed low and felt pretty good. The engagement seemed a little harsh, but I thought that was indicative of the new clutch. Anyways, over the course of a month the pedal seemed to slowly come back up to where it originally was. Well, I didn't take it back right then because I didn't have time...bad move, I know.
I took in my car yesterday because one of my Xenon lights failed (another thing that irks me), and asked them to take a look at the clutch again because it was grabbing high. I got a call from them later that day stating that the clutch did grab high and that it would need to be replaced. I told them that it had been replaced 3k ago and that it was impossible that it was worn again. They disagreed. Long story short; they are saying that I need a new clutch and that it is on my dime.
Here are my questions:
Q1) Seriously, what would it take to wear down a clutch in 3k? A lot of track time? Several 5k rpm launches? I can assure neither happened, but I just want to know how feasible it is to wear it down that quickly.
Q2) Does pedal height really indicate clutch wear? Couldn't there be something else that could affect the pedal height? i.e. master or slave cylinder?
Q3) If I do let the dealer take it apart, what things specifically should I be looking for that would indicate failed parts over abuse? I am naturally going to make them prove beyond a reasonable doubt that it was worn and not failed.
Q4) Is there any way a failure could look like natural wear? i.e. Maladjustment made the clutch push up against the flywheel and wear down.
Q5) Assume, for arguments sake that the clutch was not properly broken in. What would be the failure mode? Would it cause the clutch to wear quicker, or would it cause poor engagement?
Last Question) Do I just get a Southbend and go tell Audi to go **** on someone else's leg and tell them it's raining?
I took my car in for service last July at around 50k and complained that my clutch grabbed really high (it had been doing that for the two years that I owned the car). The service manager called me and said that it was slipping in 5th gear and that they would replace the clutch....great! I got the car back and got the "easy does it for 500mi" speech and got in my car and drove away. The clutch grabbed low and felt pretty good. The engagement seemed a little harsh, but I thought that was indicative of the new clutch. Anyways, over the course of a month the pedal seemed to slowly come back up to where it originally was. Well, I didn't take it back right then because I didn't have time...bad move, I know.
I took in my car yesterday because one of my Xenon lights failed (another thing that irks me), and asked them to take a look at the clutch again because it was grabbing high. I got a call from them later that day stating that the clutch did grab high and that it would need to be replaced. I told them that it had been replaced 3k ago and that it was impossible that it was worn again. They disagreed. Long story short; they are saying that I need a new clutch and that it is on my dime.
Here are my questions:
Q1) Seriously, what would it take to wear down a clutch in 3k? A lot of track time? Several 5k rpm launches? I can assure neither happened, but I just want to know how feasible it is to wear it down that quickly.
Q2) Does pedal height really indicate clutch wear? Couldn't there be something else that could affect the pedal height? i.e. master or slave cylinder?
Q3) If I do let the dealer take it apart, what things specifically should I be looking for that would indicate failed parts over abuse? I am naturally going to make them prove beyond a reasonable doubt that it was worn and not failed.
Q4) Is there any way a failure could look like natural wear? i.e. Maladjustment made the clutch push up against the flywheel and wear down.
Q5) Assume, for arguments sake that the clutch was not properly broken in. What would be the failure mode? Would it cause the clutch to wear quicker, or would it cause poor engagement?
Last Question) Do I just get a Southbend and go tell Audi to go **** on someone else's leg and tell them it's raining?
#2
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Since then I have done several track events, several drag events, and some fun launching on the streets. At 62k miles now on stock clutch.
If your clutch is not slipping, I'd say leave it alone.
Oh all the other 1.8Ts with stock clutches I've driven also grab high.
If your clutch is not slipping, I'd say leave it alone.
Oh all the other 1.8Ts with stock clutches I've driven also grab high.
#3
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I asked the service department about the high grabbing point and they said it was not an indication of wear. I've heard that this high engagment point while annoying, is normal.
P.S slipping in 5th? Why not lower gears?
P.S slipping in 5th? Why not lower gears?
#5
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No offense but I've seen people do that and nothing wears the clutch faster.
Audi Clutches grab high and are self adjusting so there's nothing you can really screw up during the installation adjustment-wise.
My spec III clutch grabs very high but holds like a mother.
Audi Clutches grab high and are self adjusting so there's nothing you can really screw up during the installation adjustment-wise.
My spec III clutch grabs very high but holds like a mother.
#6
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...however, they are telling me now that it needs to be replaced. The only reason that I am considering it is becuase they said they could probably get away with not replacing the flywheel at this point, which saves me about $800. I probably won't do anything.
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