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CV Axle Wedged In - Help!

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Old 12-21-2009, 12:24 PM
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Default CV Axle Wedged In - Help!

Hi, guys,

I am removing my CV axles... On the front driver's side axle, the bolts have been removed from the tranny side, then I turned the wheel in all the way to the left... The axle is kind of wedged in, and I don't know how to get it out...

See the attached pic...

Any tips?

Thanks in advance,
Mark
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Old 12-21-2009, 02:11 PM
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Take out the long bolt that retains the two upper joints, then tap each ball joint post out of the casting. You might have to soak this area with penetrating oil first. Now the whole thing will easily swing out enough to get your driveshaft out.
Old 12-21-2009, 02:40 PM
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Looks like the car is well supported by axle stands.

Is that hydraulic jack lifting the lower arm?

It looks like it because the shock is compressed. Let the jack down that way the hub should drop. Axle will fall out.

You can put one foot on the hub and push too!
Old 12-22-2009, 06:03 AM
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On this car, the maximum room is with the control arm jacked up to normal ride height position - I just tested this out last week, as I replaced both of mine. You CAN get the passenger side axle out without taking the control arm apart, but not the driver side (I couldn't anyway), but like previously mentioned, just remove the top bolt at the upper control arms and pop those out - careful not to damage the boots... it will come right out then.
Old 12-22-2009, 05:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Spinnetti
On this car, the maximum room is with the control arm jacked up to normal ride height position - I just tested this out last week, as I replaced both of mine. You CAN get the passenger side axle out without taking the control arm apart, but not the driver side (I couldn't anyway), but like previously mentioned, just remove the top bolt at the upper control arms and pop those out - careful not to damage the boots... it will come right out then.
My car was a west coast always garaged car with no rust, so getting the top bolt was a piece of cake, but I never needed to for the axle on either side.

I have had to do this several times through the years unfortunately, however I owned my 96 for almost 11 years and 160,000. It always fell right out for me, I see you car is a B6 so it may be different.

The older cars might have different axles I guess.
Old 12-23-2009, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by AudiMick
My car was a west coast always garaged car with no rust, so getting the top bolt was a piece of cake, but I never needed to for the axle on either side.

I have had to do this several times through the years unfortunately, however I owned my 96 for almost 11 years and 160,000. It always fell right out for me, I see you car is a B6 so it may be different.

The older cars might have different axles I guess.

Sorry, I should have specified... I have a B6, but just got a 99' B5 as a spare car for the wife to keep miles off her gas hogging Touareg. Maybe mine already had replacement axles or something, but it was darned close to get the passenger side out, and couldn't get the driver side out without removing the upper arms. Either way, I did do some experiments, and jacking the car at normal ride height provides the maximum room to remove the axle. From the pic, I bet if he did that the axle would come right out since it was so close already.... all good fun. Beats paying somebody else to do it anyway! (Also amazing that I got brand new (not rebuilt) axles for $94 each)
Old 12-23-2009, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Spinnetti
Sorry, I should have specified... I have a B6, but just got a 99' B5 as a spare car for the wife to keep miles off her gas hogging Touareg. Maybe mine already had replacement axles or something, but it was darned close to get the passenger side out, and couldn't get the driver side out without removing the upper arms. Either way, I did do some experiments, and jacking the car at normal ride height provides the maximum room to remove the axle. From the pic, I bet if he did that the axle would come right out since it was so close already.... all good fun. Beats paying somebody else to do it anyway! (Also amazing that I got brand new (not rebuilt) axles for $94 each)
The axle replacement is cake, replacing the boots and grease is the hard job. Saves cash too since a pair of boots is only $30 or so.

Still good to know, my daughter has a B6, so when the time comes!
Old 12-23-2009, 11:13 AM
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Default Oops, I need a clue...

People, thanks for all the great support. It turns out that once all SIX (not five) axle bolts are removed, the aformentioned axle can be wiggled out of place fairly easily.

NEVER doubt the role of light in a job, I generally need to shed more light on any given situation.

Also note that I did not need to disconnect the control arms. I pulled all the bolts, reseated the axle on the hub site, pulled it in (to compress the joint), the transmission side came down and out, then I pulled it all through on the backside of the wheel hub. The wheel was turned all the way to the right while I was doing the driver's side.

Thanks again for the tips.

Mark
Old 12-23-2009, 06:46 PM
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Originally Posted by marksebailey
It turns out that once all SIX (not five) axle bolts are removed, the aformentioned axle can be wiggled out of place fairly easily.

NEVER doubt the role of light in a job, I generally need to shed more light on any given situation.


Mark
Let me be the first to say. Duhhh!

Glad you got it out!
Old 12-23-2009, 07:07 PM
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Default Famous last words...

Now I cannot get the new one in... You know, I wish my garage were heated...

AND, I wish that the Bentley Publishers website wasn't such a dud. Probably it would be better to do it right, rather than to cut corners.

I see a couple disconnected control arms in my future...

Did you guys do it that way?

A friend of mine Macgeyvered his Passat, didn't need to take the heat shield off, or tap out the control arms. Certainly he has magical powers...

Thanks,
Mark


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