Doing Front Wheel Bearings/TR Ends Change - Need Advice Please
#1
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Hi Everyone;
I have a 2001 a4 1.8t Avant that I've had since new. It now has aroung 117k and I need to change the front wheel bearings. I'll be doing the Tie Rod ends as well.
By the way the last major bit of work on it was the "timming belt kit" job. (I work at a high school with an auto shop and was able to do it with the help of my friend the "auto teacher".)
Anyway to get ready for this job I have bought the TR ends, the (2) bearing kits (ECStunning),a triple square driver set (for the axle bolts on the transmission side), the 17mm hex for the axle bolts,this tool set fron Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=66829 - except mine was part 45210
to press out/in the bearings (crossing fingers), but I also know the torch works and the tanks are full
.
Here is my confusion I think I read somewhere that I could take out the axles without removing the "famous" pinch bolt, by first removing the axle at the transmission end, then lifting that end (to create more wiggle space), turning the steering to the right (if doing drivers side) thus creating yet more space for removal at the hub end.
Can this job then be done in this manner, without removing that damned pinch bolt?
Since I have to change the TR ends will this allow more space to work with during the bearing/axle removal tasks?
Thank you all that have posted.
I have learned a lot and I'm still learning.
Thanks for all/any replies.
I have a 2001 a4 1.8t Avant that I've had since new. It now has aroung 117k and I need to change the front wheel bearings. I'll be doing the Tie Rod ends as well.
By the way the last major bit of work on it was the "timming belt kit" job. (I work at a high school with an auto shop and was able to do it with the help of my friend the "auto teacher".)
Anyway to get ready for this job I have bought the TR ends, the (2) bearing kits (ECStunning),a triple square driver set (for the axle bolts on the transmission side), the 17mm hex for the axle bolts,this tool set fron Harbor Freight http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=66829 - except mine was part 45210
to press out/in the bearings (crossing fingers), but I also know the torch works and the tanks are full
![Smile](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Here is my confusion I think I read somewhere that I could take out the axles without removing the "famous" pinch bolt, by first removing the axle at the transmission end, then lifting that end (to create more wiggle space), turning the steering to the right (if doing drivers side) thus creating yet more space for removal at the hub end.
Can this job then be done in this manner, without removing that damned pinch bolt?
Since I have to change the TR ends will this allow more space to work with during the bearing/axle removal tasks?
Thank you all that have posted.
I have learned a lot and I'm still learning.
Thanks for all/any replies.
#2
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I believe that since you bought that kit press out the bearing you don't have to worry about the pinch bolt. That comes in to play if you have to take off the whole knuckle assembly to put it on a press to punch out the bearing. I'm not sure if thats the kit to do it while still on the car. Maybe someone else can show you or ill look it up when i have time later.
#3
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If the avant is like my normal a4, there are six 7mm Allen head bolts nearest the transmission that allow you to unbolt them and remove the axle from the back side. I used a small 1/4" impact and a looooooooong extension to remove them. Between removing those and removing your TR ends, you should have no problem.
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#4
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Thank you for the replies, received the bearing kits today (Great Shipping ECStunning!) and the triple square bits should be in by the end of the week.
Forgot to mention that the car will be on a lift
and that should help an older man like me to get it done without too much pain.
Great site/people here.
Thanks again
Forgot to mention that the car will be on a lift
![Smile](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Great site/people here.
Thanks again
#5
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Thank you for the replies, received the bearing kits today (Great Shipping ECStunning!) and the triple square bits should be in by the end of the week.
Forgot to mention that the car will be on a lift
and that should help an older man like me to get it done without too much pain.
Great site/people here.
Thanks again
Forgot to mention that the car will be on a lift
![Smile](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
Great site/people here.
Thanks again
__________________
:: www.ECStuning.com :: Now with EXTENDED Customer Service hours!! | FIND US ON FACEBOOK!!![Cool](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
Phone: 1.800.924.5172 - Sales: 8:30am to MIDNIGHT EST | Customer Service 8:30am - 8pm EST
Questions? PM us for a quick response! | Email: Pete@ecstuning.com
:: www.ECStuning.com :: Now with EXTENDED Customer Service hours!! | FIND US ON FACEBOOK!!
![Cool](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif)
Phone: 1.800.924.5172 - Sales: 8:30am to MIDNIGHT EST | Customer Service 8:30am - 8pm EST
Questions? PM us for a quick response! | Email: Pete@ecstuning.com
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#7
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that the Harbor Freight tool worked amazingly well. The sizes included were just right for removing and installing the bearings and they were used to press the hub back in as well.
Air tools are a must.
Only did the driver's side (the worst one), because the easy job (removing and replacing the outer TR) turned into the job from hell. Couldn't remove the inner from the outer TR - Rusted solid it appears.
Will take it out as an assembly and then torch it loose (I hope).
That for next week, but the other bearing tomorrow.
Air tools are a must.
Only did the driver's side (the worst one), because the easy job (removing and replacing the outer TR) turned into the job from hell. Couldn't remove the inner from the outer TR - Rusted solid it appears.
Will take it out as an assembly and then torch it loose (I hope).
That for next week, but the other bearing tomorrow.
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#8
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Thanks for the report on the HF tool kit.
When I replaced my TRE's I could not break the outers. Without a second hand to help me the original rubber TRE were a beatch. So I removed the whole assembly and put it in a vise.
It appears the factory used some kind of sealant or lock-tite or whatever.
I live in the south so rust wasn't a factor.
When I replaced my TRE's I could not break the outers. Without a second hand to help me the original rubber TRE were a beatch. So I removed the whole assembly and put it in a vise.
It appears the factory used some kind of sealant or lock-tite or whatever.
I live in the south so rust wasn't a factor.
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