77'911

<center><img src="http://i44.tinypic.com/2rp8cwk.jpg"></center><p>
Let me first apologize for not snapping a couple pics during the process. It was snowing while doing this and pretty cold.
1)See if the screw holding the front of the molding will come loose or be removed. If not, which is usually the case(rust), then step 2.
2)Now that the situation is mildly assessed, collect some tools. Here's what I used:
-plastic/nylon engine assembly mallet
-brass drift
-terry cloth rag
-snap-on pic set
-med phillips screw driver
-1/4 drive rachet with a deep 7mm socket
-pair of small metal snips
-adjustable wrench, med.
3) Use the pick to pull the door trim away from the panel enough to cut around where the screw insert is in the piece of trim. Do not rip the trim off the door. This can , and will usually cause damage.
Generally, there is so much corrosion in the trim that it will pull away from the dorr panel quite easily.
4)Once the front trim portion is separated around the screw insert. Just cut away the excess plastic that is molded around the 7mm nut insert in the trim piece.
5)With the brass insert exposed you can get a socket on it. Its probably not a bad idea to hit that insert with some liquid wrench or the like. The screw inside the door will be easy to remove since the 7mm insert can be held by the socket from the outside. Remove both.
6)Now with some access at the front edge of the trim, use the brass drift and plastic mallet to tap the trim towards the rear of the car with the door slightly open. This allows the trim to slide back to release off the plastic clips that hold it. It should fall to the ground when released. Be exceedingly carefull using the drift so as to not mare the paint or panel. You might consider using a plastic drift or a thick piece of cloth over the end.
7)Since the plastic clips hold the trim against the panel with some tension, you might consider replacing them. Our were pretty tired as well as full of dirt. Its worth taking some time here while the trim is off to clean and wax things up.
8)To remove the old clip, use a pic to pull the release tab up and slide the clip towards the front of the car. The new clips install by pushing them on where the tab is and sliding the clips towards the rear of the car.
9)With the panel cleaned, new clips installed(aligned), mallet handy, door slightly open, install the trim on the door panel. Get the trim to start to catch on the beginning of the clips and use the mallet to gingerly tap the trim forward into place. Watch the screw hole towards the front of the door for proper placement and alignment.
10)Now install the screw. Its not need to be exceedingly tight as this is a platic piece of trim, so due caution should be taken as not to crack the paint.
Caveat, this is just for informational purposes only and the writer takes no responsibility for actions taken by others. Hopefully, I've got it all. For others thinking about this, its quite simple a process. The car looks so much better, I'm thinking of doing the rest of the door trim.
Parts used, application-MY00 A4 sedan 30v:
1)Trim- 8D0-853-959-B-01C, qty.1 , $33.55
2)Clip- 8D0-853-909-B , qty.7 , $0.54 each
Hope this helps some of you.
Regards

velosouljah

I like your way better on getting the bolt out but IIRC I just carefully dremeled off that front retaining screw from the inside as the nut was just spinning inside the plastic. Made a slit with dremel and then just pinched it with pliers to snap off head. Again your way would be best especially for people who don't have hands like a surgeon :-)

Putting the new one back on, the white plastic clips were in very good shape so I just muscled it forward w/o a mallet but your way might have been way easier here too I guess but don't remember any trouble.

Same thing on the rear drivers side on my wife's sedan when I did that one. The thing here is the PO had used some glue to hold a failing one on. So it took some time to clean that crap off the clips but again they were still good so I reused them.

Considering that there are others like me that didn't have their B5 since new will find this case as well so thought it was valid to mention that you may find glue under there and need to clean it up, etc. I was just glad they didn't glue it to the paint too!

77'911

The trim almost breaks away just holding it with a wrench leaving that brass nut/insert left. It really avoids alot of unecessary violence. Those plastic/nylon engine assembly mallets are great.
Another reason why I replaced the clips on ours, is I found they had lost alot of their tension(very loose, would spin easily, etc.). The tabs at the ends had just gone flat or turned up.
I don't why people would glue the old ones on when new ones are not terribly pricey. It never really addresses the issue or causality which is the metal piece internally rusting apart. Go figure.
Regards

Greyhound Guy

This saved lots of time on the rears after doing the fronts a separate time without cutting.

velosouljah

yes so true....and exactly why their epoxy job didn't work long term

Joey T

You didn't write " a reply "





You been drinking?

77'911

<center><img src="http://www.restaurantwidow.com/images/martini.jpg"></center><p>No, but after doing some parts replacement out in the snow, I should be. ; )

TEB

...brass nut thing then slid off the clips. At that point, I just grabbed the brass thing with a pair of visegrips and backed the screw out. Everything was pretty rusty, but all 4 screws came out ok.


YMMV.

artemm

I just ripped it off, dremelled the rusty bolt, and popped on the new piece. Needless to say, I was in a hurry when I was doing this.