amall99

Any idea what would cause this? This happens every time I start the car after it's been sitting all night or during the day for an extended period (like a few hours).

I start the car, go into reverse to get out of the driveway then on my road I hit the gas and can basically just coast along at 10 MPH while the RPMs go up to 3-4 then it shifts sort of roughly. This happens a few times before it's totally fine and working good again.

Any ideas what would cause this?

Reggie

I'm assuming you have tip. You need to get that sorted out - perhaps just a flush.

uberwgn

How many miles on this car? When was the transmission last serviced?

4Driver4

Fluid and filter change. No flushing, please.

amall99

It's at about 135,000 miles right now. I've only had the car for just under an entire year, and haven't had the transmission serviced so I don't know when it was last looked at to be honest.

I'm sure this is probably a stupid question, but do you mean transmission fluid and filter change? Is this relatively simple/cheap to do? What's the difference between flushing it and just changing it? Thank you!

4Driver4

Yup. Auto trans fluid and filter. Change it. Drain fluid, replace filter, replace pan, fill per Audi procedure (STFA).

Changing gets the majority of the fluid but not all. Flushing gets more fluid, but may cause other issues depending on how it is done.

turbo510

First, not a stupid question.

Your transmission filter could have 135K worth of residue in it, which can restrict flow into the pump, so I think most of the guys would suggest changing it. Besides that, you should clean the pan because it will have a sludge from wearing of the clutches, and there are magnets which will have steel fuzz on them.

I think that its relatively simple, but I've done it a few times. You'll need a 17mm, 12mm hex drivers or Allen keys, a Torx driver set that has T20 and T27 bits, four jack stands, a carpenter's level, drain pan, automotive silicone sealant, a transmission filter/gasket set, and 7 quarts of your prefered ATF- one extra just in case (Valvoline MaxLife for me). The ATF and filter set will run about $60~$70. Besides that, you'll need a way to get the new ATF up into the trans, which can be done various ways. I made a simple setup using vinyl hose and a copper elbow from Home Depot, just add your ladder and funnel. I posted pictures some time ago if you want to search for it. The ATF temp should be between 35C and 45C when the refilling is done, and VAG-COM is the usual way to watch that, but a warm-to-the-touch pan will work in a pinch.

Flushing is supposed to change more of the ATF, because when you drain the trans, you'll get at most about 6 quarts out of 9 that it holds. The other 3 quarts stays in the torque converter, and will mix with the new fluid. I've never had it done, and the experts on this site all seem to advise against doing a flush. Because the original fluid was so old, I drained and refilled a second time (but without taking the pan off) which makes the ATF around 90% fresh.

4Driver4

VAG-COM is the correct tool to monitor trans temp and is required to set the level correctly. You could use a hammer to put the bolts back in for the pan, but that doesn't make it a good idea.

IMHO, which is based entirely on theory, the problem with flushing involves the filter. When you flush, many shops just hook up the lines and go...without dropping the pan. This is like changing the engine oil but reusing the same filter.

...and if they do change the filter (which is the most important part of the job), they do it ether before flushing (flushing forces particulate out of the filter and into the trans) or after flushing (flushing dislogdes crap and packs it into the new filter.

Getting the last drop of fluid out is neither highly important or specified by the manufacturer.

amall99

Thanks for the input guys I really appreciate it. I think this might be a bit over my head though in terms of doing it myself, although I do now understand what needs to be done. Do you know a ball park cost this might run at a local mechanic to have done?

Also any idea on how imperative it is that it gets done right away? I spent over 1200 the past week alone on this car, so just wondering. Thanks again!

5v/cyl

I'd say very imperative. You already have a shifting problem when cold. That is a warning sign. If ignored it could get worse and end up needing a new tranny. No guarantee that this is the problem, but very likely if tranny has never been serviced.