Engine won't start after serpentine belt broke
#31
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From memory the pulleys dont have marks and arent keyed to the end of the cams, its just a plain morse taper.
To set the timing after something like this, you need a tool to lock the camshaft itself in the correct position, you then loosen the pulleys, then with the crank at TDC you can fit the belt, engage the tensioner then tighten the cam pulleys again.
I may be wrong, or this may only apply to certain engines though.
I have to say that if you've lost compression its quite likely the head is lunched, especially if it happened at speed.
To set the timing after something like this, you need a tool to lock the camshaft itself in the correct position, you then loosen the pulleys, then with the crank at TDC you can fit the belt, engage the tensioner then tighten the cam pulleys again.
I may be wrong, or this may only apply to certain engines though.
I have to say that if you've lost compression its quite likely the head is lunched, especially if it happened at speed.
#32
![Default](https://www.audiworld.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
From memory the pulleys dont have marks and arent keyed to the end of the cams, its just a plain morse taper.
To set the timing after something like this, you need a tool to lock the camshaft itself in the correct position, you then loosen the pulleys, then with the crank at TDC you can fit the belt, engage the tensioner then tighten the cam pulleys again.
I may be wrong, or this may only apply to certain engines though.
I have to say that if you've lost compression its quite likely the head is lunched, especially if it happened at speed.
To set the timing after something like this, you need a tool to lock the camshaft itself in the correct position, you then loosen the pulleys, then with the crank at TDC you can fit the belt, engage the tensioner then tighten the cam pulleys again.
I may be wrong, or this may only apply to certain engines though.
I have to say that if you've lost compression its quite likely the head is lunched, especially if it happened at speed.
I'd change the belt, since it's probably damaged. Just buy the belt for now until you find out what the deal is.
Once you have the belt, you need the locking bar and crank pin to set the timing. The only mark is on the crank pulley.
STFA.
#33
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Engrish now a4driver not many people know what putting a vehicle in service mode is.... i watched mt techs do it every day and it stills confuses the hell out of me form time to time.
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Yes, the crank timing marks line up, which would indicate TDC. However, the #1 piston is not at the top of its bore (shouldn't it be?)...
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TDC is cyl #3... odd. Good to know though -- thanks Midniteoyl!
I'm gonna make my own cam lock tool (I'd assume a properly sized bolt will work for the crank as well?) and line up the cams by the torque plates with the larger holes toward center and see if I have any compression.
If not, I guess I'll be looking for a new head as well...
I'm gonna make my own cam lock tool (I'd assume a properly sized bolt will work for the crank as well?) and line up the cams by the torque plates with the larger holes toward center and see if I have any compression.
If not, I guess I'll be looking for a new head as well...
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I lined up the RH cam and still no compression... It would appear the valves are toast. I guess I'm in the market for a new head. Does anyone have the shop manual pages for intake and head removal?
Since I'm going in this far... does anyone make aftermarket cams for these engines? Should I bother doing any port matching?
Since I'm going in this far... does anyone make aftermarket cams for these engines? Should I bother doing any port matching?
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