77'911

Not everybody here will have the experience you do. Having said that, its probably a bit of risk on the side of a novice to attempt that. They might not have it at TDC(or know how to find it), or attempt it down the wrong cylinder. I'm also of the camp that when setting torque specs there can not be any inertia or movement(give). Possibly that's too rigid a view or requirement, understandibly. I'm not of the camp that wants to be in the 5% bracket, but the less then 1% one.
Do I believe it can work in a pinch, certainly. I'm a firm believer in "Murphy's Law", and its best to insure against it whenst feasibly possible. Assuming the rope is installed to the best of the applicants ability, there is no controlling the contact points, canting of the piston during stress or valves/guides, binding on one edge, etc. There is a reason why the factory develops these procedures, the tolerances were not designed for that application.
He could use a standard flywheel holding wrench from the local auto store. Probably about $10-15. The last 90 degree on the 2nd stage of torquing might be tough, but certainingly workable. I could not do it.

4Driver4

But I do think that your worries about the pistons and especially the valves and guides might be a hair on the paranoid side.

That said, I'm not sure much the piston would enjoy the rope trick if it was used in conjuction with an impact gun to remove the bolts.

computrtutr

Great discussion on the rope trick. Were I a little smarter, I would clarified my intent.... I need to get the flywheel bolts off, and I am looking for technique to break the torque without the engine turning. I am planning on obtaining the proper tool when I reinstall it- I just need to get it to the machine shop ASAP while I wait for the holding tool to arrive.

AaronBryan

^^^^^ this is how I did it ^^^^^

4Driver4

But if you have access to an impact gun, I'd probably do that instead.