guys, I'm installing a oil pressure gauge and i'm not sure where the sending unit is
06-25-2003, 05:27 AM
#21
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Depending on temperature 22-24 psi dropping to ~20 to redline. I've seen
25-26 psi dropping back to 22-23 when the ambient temperature was just right. If IATs shoot up the ECU will dial back boost and timing tho. What FMIC does he run?
06-25-2003, 05:31 AM
#22
I think it's an ABD (could be ABT, though for some reason I don't think so)
I am wondering if perhaps there is a leak still.. I don't remember if it spiked over 20 psi at all. Would a bad or 'loose' direrter valve bleed off some boost? He said the DV is somehow adjustable internally (by shimming from what we could guess) and was left intentionally loose by the 'tuner' that built the engine.
06-25-2003, 05:43 AM
#23
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A bad BPV will dump pressure if it doesn't seal properly or has a leak in the manifold to BPV line.
Usually the adjustment changes how 'crisply' the valve reacts. Running it out allows the valve to open at idle .. like the OEM setup and will slow the valve action on throttle lift a bit. Running the adjustment in far enough will keep the valve closed at idle but will make it very crisp in opening and closing between shifts or on throttle lift (max vaccum).
Looked at his siggy . .ABT FMIC is listed. I don't know what the potential drop is across that FMIC but I suspect the GT25 would be able to compensate .. at least until the upper middle rpm range. Unless the ambients were sky high I'd suspect a boost leak somewhere.
Looked at his siggy . .ABT FMIC is listed. I don't know what the potential drop is across that FMIC but I suspect the GT25 would be able to compensate .. at least until the upper middle rpm range. Unless the ambients were sky high I'd suspect a boost leak somewhere.
06-25-2003, 06:12 AM
#24
Hmm. By upper middle, what do you mean? 5k? 6k? I really don't remember seeing anything over 20, but
I was driving, and not able to stare at te gauge.. If I stood on it at say 4k, I might have seen 22 psi, petering off to ~20 at 6-7k?
06-25-2003, 10:25 AM
#30
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Getting it out is easy. Getting the new larger diameter APR supplied hose back in is hard :) Getting
the OEM line reconnected is fairly easy by comparison. There isn't much room to manuever under there and as such getting anything close to a reasonable turn on a wrench is tough.
there are a few cheat tricks like pulling the IC to TB hose, the coolant expansion tank and running the new supply hose (that end pre-assembled) down at the proper angle and attaching it before threading it around behind the head. It also helps if you have 3 foot long pipe cleaner arms like mine tho.
there are a few cheat tricks like pulling the IC to TB hose, the coolant expansion tank and running the new supply hose (that end pre-assembled) down at the proper angle and attaching it before threading it around behind the head. It also helps if you have 3 foot long pipe cleaner arms like mine tho.