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Have you done your own timing belt?

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Old 01-17-2005, 04:00 PM
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Default Have you done your own timing belt?

Okay, I was in the middle of replacing my t-stat and went to loosen the t-belt tensioner. I failed to put it at TDC first but did mark both sides of the belt and top two pulleys with a paint pen. When I loosened the tensioner the belt immediately slipped. When I tried to move the pulley back to line up with the paint marks the other side slipped too (I'm guessing because it was not at TDC and valves tried to close?). Can I replace the t-stat and somehow get the t-belt back on and aligned correctly or is it mechanic time?
Old 01-17-2005, 04:09 PM
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Default I think it's time for a mechanic.

You really should use a cam lock bar, or a jig that's similar to lock the cams in place. If you know how far off each bank is, and you can restore it to the way it was with 100% confidence, give it a shot. But unless you're 100% sure you can line everything up correctly, I would bring it to a mechanic.

I'm not sure what the procedure is once you've lost time, to line everything up correctly again. I don't recall seeing it posted on AW. Someone on the S4 forum did it recently, and there seemed to be confusion about what was in Bentley, vs. what was the correct way to set it up (Bentley was apparently wrong). Again, this was on an S4...similar, but not necessarily the same (meaning Bentley may have correct instructions for the 2.8).

There is one guy here (Carson) who is a VW tech. I think he would probably be able to fill in details, but I forget this screen name.
Old 01-17-2005, 04:14 PM
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Carson's SN on here is GTIVR62801... (I think). He's a good guy. Ask him.
Old 01-17-2005, 05:00 PM
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Default The proper procedure as per VESIS/AESIS is

turning the engine to TDC Cyl 3 and locking the engine in place with the crank lock tool. Release the tension on the belt by compressing the tensioning element, you can either turn it back using a hex key and inserting a pin to hold it, or just do like I do and remove it and put it in a shop vise. Then you either use a puller or hammer/cold chisel to loosen the cam pullies off the the cams, then remove and install the belt.

Replacing the tensioner and rollers are something I would suggest doing as well...I had to do both heads on a 30V when a idler roller's bearing failed and broke the belt...it happened within 8 months of a previous TB replacement by another technician.

When reinstalling, leave the cam pullies loose to aid in belt installation, and make sure the cams do not move. If the cams move a significant amount you will have to take the valve covers off to time the heads by the cam tensioner timing marks.

Once you have everything lined up and the belt is on, release the hydraulic tensioner and pre-tension using the hex key slot to 15 newton meters, after that tighten the cam pully bolts to 55 newton meters.

If you require more assistance, email me I guess.
Old 01-17-2005, 05:15 PM
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Default He needs the procedure to time the heads.

The cams already moved on him.
Old 01-17-2005, 05:28 PM
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Default Ok...

Pop the valve covers off and there should be a mark on the cam inside to line it up to...when I did Phil's cams we made a bar to work and line them up...sure enough it worked great. Forgot we were dealing with a 12V here, my apologies.

Just take note that I have only worked on one 12V Audi V6, and that happens to be Phil's car. Its very similar (and simpler in many respects). I can do 30V engines all day long though, I have the particular procedure memorized for the 30V and most of it applied to the 12V, but not all of it.

At this point I would need a Bentley manual or AESIS to point you in the right direction, neither of which I have (my dealer is seperate from our Audi dealer, all I have is VESIS, and VW never got the 12V engine)...sorry, I'm out of knowledge.
Old 01-17-2005, 06:07 PM
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Default You're going to hate it...

Pull cam covers, loosen bearing caps until all the valves are closed, rotate crank into the proper position, align cams, tighten the bearing caps back down, and somehow you have to keep the cams from popping off while you do this. Just don't force anything. If none of this makes sense it is time for a tow.
Old 01-17-2005, 08:36 PM
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Default Just FYI, when I did my t-stat I didn't remove the timing belt.

You can twist the belt enough to get the t-stat housing out, so no removal of timing belt.

Hope you get everything sorted out.
Old 01-17-2005, 10:50 PM
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Default Big thanks to Bentley for TELLING me to loosen the t-belt....

Damn that thing does more harm than good sometimes I swear!
Old 01-18-2005, 03:13 AM
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Default Well, yeah, but somewhere in there there must have been

an instruction about installing the cam lock bar first.


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