Help bleeding brakes :(
#1
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I just recently replaced my master because the pedal was going halfway to the floor. Even after bleeding the system.
So I replaced the master. But it appears that I have a air trapped somewhere. The brakes are not like they were before I replace the master . They do feel better and I can get a real firm pedal with the car off as soon as I start the car the pedal turns to mush.
I've used a Motive pressure bleeder to bleed the brakes more times than I can count. I've taken the car out and hammered on the brakes to get the ABS to engage and then bought it back in the garage and bleed them again.
I tried to use Vag-Com to cycle the ABS but apparently that can't be done on my year. I can connect to the ABS unit but connot find any channels to connect to. After searching it looks like cycling the ABS with Vag-com only works on the newer cars.
The only thing I haven't tried is to do the two man brake bleed...but I'm a little fearful of doing that because I don't wanna blow another master cylinder. I think thats how the old one got damaged.
Anyone have any hints or advice? I'm completly stumped and fustrated. I have a apointment at Anderson Motorsports next Tuesday unless I can get this resolved before then.
So I replaced the master. But it appears that I have a air trapped somewhere. The brakes are not like they were before I replace the master . They do feel better and I can get a real firm pedal with the car off as soon as I start the car the pedal turns to mush.
I've used a Motive pressure bleeder to bleed the brakes more times than I can count. I've taken the car out and hammered on the brakes to get the ABS to engage and then bought it back in the garage and bleed them again.
I tried to use Vag-Com to cycle the ABS but apparently that can't be done on my year. I can connect to the ABS unit but connot find any channels to connect to. After searching it looks like cycling the ABS with Vag-com only works on the newer cars.
The only thing I haven't tried is to do the two man brake bleed...but I'm a little fearful of doing that because I don't wanna blow another master cylinder. I think thats how the old one got damaged.
Anyone have any hints or advice? I'm completly stumped and fustrated. I have a apointment at Anderson Motorsports next Tuesday unless I can get this resolved before then.
#3
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I'm going in this order for bleeding.
Pass rear
Driver rear
Pass front
Driver front
I bleed the clutch before replacing the master. Clutch feels fine but maybe I better try bleeding the clutch again.
Opening bleeders to the point of steady trickle. Pressure 20PSI. Yes I know I shouldn't exceed 10 PSI but I'm getting frustrated here.
I got a ton of air out of the rears at one point after bringing it back in after engaging the ABS.
Not much air out of the fronts.
Pass rear
Driver rear
Pass front
Driver front
I bleed the clutch before replacing the master. Clutch feels fine but maybe I better try bleeding the clutch again.
Opening bleeders to the point of steady trickle. Pressure 20PSI. Yes I know I shouldn't exceed 10 PSI but I'm getting frustrated here.
I got a ton of air out of the rears at one point after bringing it back in after engaging the ABS.
Not much air out of the fronts.
#4
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then close them in order. If there is a problem after that, you have a mechanical problem. Sounds more like a leak now???