HELP! Cams jumped out of timing
#1
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Hey guys,
I was changing my t-belt and noticed a lot of oil leaks from the passenger side valve cover area. I decided to change the valve cover gasket and tensioner gaskets as well. When I was attempting to pull off the double cap, I had forgotten to remove to Cam Position sensor. When I went to remove it, both cams turned to their next position, and the timing is off. How do I reset it? Do I continue pulling the cam tensioner and reposition them manually? Or do I reinsert the bolt on the cam positioning sensor and turn until both are back in time? I'm freaking out because I am new to Audi and have read horror stories about even being 1 tooth out. Thanks for the help!
I was changing my t-belt and noticed a lot of oil leaks from the passenger side valve cover area. I decided to change the valve cover gasket and tensioner gaskets as well. When I was attempting to pull off the double cap, I had forgotten to remove to Cam Position sensor. When I went to remove it, both cams turned to their next position, and the timing is off. How do I reset it? Do I continue pulling the cam tensioner and reposition them manually? Or do I reinsert the bolt on the cam positioning sensor and turn until both are back in time? I'm freaking out because I am new to Audi and have read horror stories about even being 1 tooth out. Thanks for the help!
#3
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you have the T-belt removed? so I assume you have no Cam Loc tool in place???? it sound like you still have the cam chain on so both cams moved?
to change the cam chain tensioner you generally leave the t-belt on.
but no matter what you have you just carefully move the cams back in time. you cna turn them by the bolt in the main cam pulley, the problem is if the cams spun under pressure from the valve springs they can spin pretty quick and bend a valve.
if you were removing the tensioner and just 1 cam spun then you also need to move it back manually and count the teeth on the cam chain to put it back (passenger side head is different then drivers side)
you really want it in time and the T-belt on so it doesn't move when you remove the cam to get the tensioner out. But Actually you don't need to take the tensioner out to change the gasket just compress it loosen it and pop it up just enough to slide the gasket out and the new one in. this way no timing can get messed up. you will need the tensioner tool though to compress it to change the gasket.
to change the cam chain tensioner you generally leave the t-belt on.
but no matter what you have you just carefully move the cams back in time. you cna turn them by the bolt in the main cam pulley, the problem is if the cams spun under pressure from the valve springs they can spin pretty quick and bend a valve.
if you were removing the tensioner and just 1 cam spun then you also need to move it back manually and count the teeth on the cam chain to put it back (passenger side head is different then drivers side)
you really want it in time and the T-belt on so it doesn't move when you remove the cam to get the tensioner out. But Actually you don't need to take the tensioner out to change the gasket just compress it loosen it and pop it up just enough to slide the gasket out and the new one in. this way no timing can get messed up. you will need the tensioner tool though to compress it to change the gasket.
#4
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Much easier to change the tensioner gasket and seal if you remove the belt first.
Agree with the advice though. It sounds like the chains did not move.
If that is the case, just use the bar to turn the cams back to TDC. Turn them back in the opposite direction that they moved. Should not be a problem. Be sure to use the tool to set cam timing correctly when reinstalling the belt. This means breaking the sprockets free and *setting* the timing, not just using the tools to get it "close enough" with the sprockets still fixed to the cams.
Agree with the advice though. It sounds like the chains did not move.
If that is the case, just use the bar to turn the cams back to TDC. Turn them back in the opposite direction that they moved. Should not be a problem. Be sure to use the tool to set cam timing correctly when reinstalling the belt. This means breaking the sprockets free and *setting* the timing, not just using the tools to get it "close enough" with the sprockets still fixed to the cams.
#5
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I used the cam lock and all the audi approved tools. I also used the tensioner device on the tensioner to relieve the tension. The chain did move and both cams turned with a click. I am about to remove the tensioner so I can replace the gaskets. Should I just set it back up correctly with 16 chain links and the notches back?
#7
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With the valve covers off use the cam lock bar and turn it about 45deg. or so and look at each cam you'll be able to see an > that points to a lil spot when it's at TDC. There is one on each cam. Mine moved and this is what I did and badabing.
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