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Help! How do I fix a fuel leak at this fitting?

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Old 01-26-2009, 01:46 PM
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Default a comment.....

Just order a new part from Audi. That is a fire waiting to happen. Leaks of that type were prevalent back in the day on 944's and 944 turbos. The fix from Porsche was a warranteed hose and to upgrade to turbo motor mounts. You might check your drivetrain mounts. Those types of fittings don't like very much movement, if at all. You might consider while in there, replacing the upper and lower injector seal o-rings, as you've done a fair bit of the work already.
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Old 01-26-2009, 03:06 PM
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Default "fire waiting to happen"...yeah, tell me about it, I smell a little gas, look under the hood...

and it's dripping onto the nice hot passenger side valve cover and evaporating instantaneously. I'm going to leave it parked until I get it fixed. I just wish it wasn't so damn cold (-5F when I had to bike to school today)
Old 01-26-2009, 03:12 PM
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Default I'll let you know. It better include the fitting for $68!

at first he tried to sell me 1.5ft of hose for $35!
Old 01-26-2009, 03:19 PM
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Default "wish it wasn't so damned cold''...

I hear you, its pretty crisp here as well and I've got numerous projects sitting on the burner. Use a pair of nitrle gloves while working, its a modest help. Nice pic.
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Old 01-27-2009, 03:35 AM
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Default seriously!

<center><img src="http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/enginemechanical/sm_DSC_5609.jpg"></center><p>
Old 01-27-2009, 05:35 AM
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Default

The cold probably provoked the problem; rubber constriction ...
Old 01-27-2009, 06:22 AM
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Default This is an old, old, old problem for which the solution has been worked out for

all of the earlier platforms that had similar problems. Take the time to run through the C4, S-Car, 4000, 100/200/5000/V8 boards some time and see for yourself.

Audi even did a recall for certain years of the 100/A6 for this exact problem.

3 options exist for the repair:

- Buy a whole new part and install after you sh*t yourself from sticker shock.

- Remove the whole part and have it rebuilt by any of the run-of-the-mill hydraulic hose rebuilders that are in every big and small town. I've had it done for around $20 while I wait.

- Splice in a foot or so of suitable fuel injection line with high-quality clamps. This will take you 20 minutes and under $5 in parts.

- A 4th option using epoxy is shown on Audipages.com, but I personally wouldn't drive a car rigged like that.

VW uses the 'hose with clamps' setup on many of its motors instead of the crimped connection that's the subject of this thread. It's a viable and cheap solution.
Old 01-27-2009, 07:15 AM
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Default I'm not sure how that would work with my line. The 30v appears to be different.

<center><img src="http://pictureposter.audiworld.com/134554/dscn0655.jpg"></center><p>the connector is crimped on the outside. Anyways...I already ordered the part just for the fact that I don't want to be in the garage messing around with leaking fuel when it's -10F.
Old 01-27-2009, 07:32 AM
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Default not really

<center><img src="http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/enginemechanical/sm_DSC_5606.jpg"></center><p>The photos are from Paul's Audipages.com (link below), which focuses on the D2 A8. Similar enough to the B5 in many cases to apply.

fwiw, use the 2nd method shown on this page. The first method using epoxy seems quite dodgy to me.<ul><li><a href="http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/enginemechanical/fuelleakrepari.html">http://www.audipages.com/Tech_Articles/enginemechanical/fuelleakrepari.html</a</li></ul>
Old 01-27-2009, 08:36 AM
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Default The leak I had was at the back of the nut, not the crimp

The nut wasn't loose either. Wiggled the line a little bit and the leaking stopped. WTF!


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