how long to do a 1.8 engine swap?
04-06-2011, 07:43 AM
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how long to do a 1.8 engine swap?
this weekend I will be swapping engines in a 01 1.8t A4 for a friend.
so How long should I expect this to take? and I have 2 options 1 do it at home or 2 do it at a friends shop with a lift. At home will be much more convenient which I can work at my time, at a buddies shop I would need to be their when he is closed and done sooner,(not to mention if I need something extra I would need to go get it from home...) so would a lift be worth it???
I believe their are only a few bolts that are needed from under the car right??
any tips or tricks needed?
so How long should I expect this to take? and I have 2 options 1 do it at home or 2 do it at a friends shop with a lift. At home will be much more convenient which I can work at my time, at a buddies shop I would need to be their when he is closed and done sooner,(not to mention if I need something extra I would need to go get it from home...) so would a lift be worth it???
I believe their are only a few bolts that are needed from under the car right??
any tips or tricks needed?
04-06-2011, 08:14 AM
#2
Stick or auto?
Either way the subframe is in the way.
The amount of time you take depends on how you do the job. If the donor engine is all set to go with all accessories in place you should be able to do it in a day. When I do it, I like to swap all the known good stuff off the old engine on the to donor and do a complete timing belt service. This doubles the time.
Either way the subframe is in the way.
The amount of time you take depends on how you do the job. If the donor engine is all set to go with all accessories in place you should be able to do it in a day. When I do it, I like to swap all the known good stuff off the old engine on the to donor and do a complete timing belt service. This doubles the time.
04-06-2011, 09:20 AM
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the new engine already has the new T-belt and etc. but I will need to swap brackets and etc..
I think I will go ahead and use my buddies shop with the lift, it is probably worth it. I think it is worth the aggravation to drive home for something vrs crawling under the car and jacking it up as needed!
it's a Auto
I think I will go ahead and use my buddies shop with the lift, it is probably worth it. I think it is worth the aggravation to drive home for something vrs crawling under the car and jacking it up as needed!
it's a Auto
04-11-2011, 11:03 AM
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well got my engine swap finished! no real problems but as usual a few minor ones.
I started with a 2001 A4 AWM Auto with 65k on it that has a knock from sludge. I picked up a used 2001 AwU manual from a 2001 Beetle that had 85k on it but this car the owner messed up the T-belt changed, the timing was out and he bent valves when he tried to start the car... I bought the engine from the shop who replaced it along with another one that the belt busted on when running, I got both engines for $250.
I rebuild the head which bent all the exhaust valves I think I had less then or maybe close to $600 in parts, including oil plugs T-belt kit water pump, head set and bolts etc....
it took 3 hrs to remove the old engine and it came out smooth and much easier then expected.
now I knew I was going to have to modify the crank to fit the manual engine in my Auto car but that was pretty easy, took less then 1 hr, basically the auto crank is flat and the manual crank has a cone shape which needs ground down flat, also the center hole is larger on the manual car but I happened to find a simple collar that took care of that, but not sure if it was even needed..
the biggest issue for me was since I used a Vw Engine which mounts opposite the Audi I had to swap all the components. from the exhaust manifold, oil pan, brackets, and water lines. most of this I expected, but since my engine had a sludge issue cleaning the pan was a real pain and took some time!!! I think I had 3 hrs in swapping parts and getting it ready to drop in.
But then the drop in went smooth and quickly. over all I have 10 hrs in the swap not counting the rebuild time, and lucky it fired right up then began spewing water all over!!! I guess while swapping parts I must have slit the O-ring on the metal water line coming out the end of the thermostat housing. so I need to replace the O-ring and call it finished.
thanks again to the guys who were able to give the compatibility info needed to do the swap. this was a very cost effective way to get a good engine
I started with a 2001 A4 AWM Auto with 65k on it that has a knock from sludge. I picked up a used 2001 AwU manual from a 2001 Beetle that had 85k on it but this car the owner messed up the T-belt changed, the timing was out and he bent valves when he tried to start the car... I bought the engine from the shop who replaced it along with another one that the belt busted on when running, I got both engines for $250.
I rebuild the head which bent all the exhaust valves I think I had less then or maybe close to $600 in parts, including oil plugs T-belt kit water pump, head set and bolts etc....
it took 3 hrs to remove the old engine and it came out smooth and much easier then expected.
now I knew I was going to have to modify the crank to fit the manual engine in my Auto car but that was pretty easy, took less then 1 hr, basically the auto crank is flat and the manual crank has a cone shape which needs ground down flat, also the center hole is larger on the manual car but I happened to find a simple collar that took care of that, but not sure if it was even needed..
the biggest issue for me was since I used a Vw Engine which mounts opposite the Audi I had to swap all the components. from the exhaust manifold, oil pan, brackets, and water lines. most of this I expected, but since my engine had a sludge issue cleaning the pan was a real pain and took some time!!! I think I had 3 hrs in swapping parts and getting it ready to drop in.
But then the drop in went smooth and quickly. over all I have 10 hrs in the swap not counting the rebuild time, and lucky it fired right up then began spewing water all over!!! I guess while swapping parts I must have slit the O-ring on the metal water line coming out the end of the thermostat housing. so I need to replace the O-ring and call it finished.
thanks again to the guys who were able to give the compatibility info needed to do the swap. this was a very cost effective way to get a good engine
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