moribundman

Has anyone used harborfreight's knock-off of the Hub Shark?

The Hub Shark costs about $400, the knock-off costs $80. Is the knock off garbage?

Jretal

couldn't find it on the site.

Generally the harborfreight stuff is pretty cheap, but is OK for onsie-twosies like we would use. But w/o seeing the design, it might be inferior to the hubshark.

How things going, btw? Been a while since I've seen ya around.

Oh, and since I have your attention: GOod synthetic for my 4000? MC1 turbo motor... got 4000+ miles on the new motor now and am gonna swap over from dino to synthetic.

moribundman

<a href="http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=45210">wheel bearing removal and installation kit</a>

I've bought a few tools at harborfreight. One of their stores is nearby. I know their quality varies from bad to okay.

Everything is okay, Justin. I just don't have much to say on the 12v forum anymore.

For your turbo engine I suggest a 5W-40 oil that meets VW 502. Most synthetic 5W-40 oils will be not 100% full synthetics but either Group III or a blend of Group III, IV and possibly Group V. If you want to go with a full synthetic, Red Line 5W-40 would be my first choice if price were of no concern (figure $9 per quart). Motul, Fuchs, Elf -- they all have full synthetic 5W-40 oils. Any 5W-40 API SL/SM or ACEA A3 oil will do well, though! The full synthetic will just hold up better for an increased oil change interval. 5k miles is probably a good starting point with a turbo engine. Verify oil condition repeatedly with used oil analysis.


Best,
-Tom

rookie18

<center><img src="http://www.pbase.com/rookie18/image/56550381.jpg"></center><p><ul><li><a href="http://www.pbase.com/rookie18/wheel_bearing&amp;page=all">More pictures</a></li></ul>

Silver Streakin'

and all of the other 1.8T BT oils wouldn't be fine to use.

I probably wouldn't use M1 0w40 since it tends to thin out down to closer to a 30 weight.

take a sample at 3k miles and send whatever you use to Blackstone. $32.50 and you'll know, and if it'll run to 5k. (standard + TBN)<ul><li><a href="http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html">http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free_test_kit.html</a</li></ul>

anon_az

to pulling the whole knuckle and bringing it down to a machine shopt to have the bearings pressed?

rookie18

It wasn't too hard however, I have read about other people having problems.

Jretal

for the tool: I'm not seeing an easy way to get the hub out of the bearing as others have said. You might be able to use some of the smaller ones to get it out, but not overly sure. When I did mine, I ended up just pulling the upright and bringing it to a shop to press it out. Cost $85 (hours worth of labor... yikes!) and press in the new bearing and all was good. They even sandblasted the hub for me so it was nice and clean! So moral is... if you're gonna only do one of these bearings, might almost be worth just pulling the upright and let a shop do it. Only catch is, you'll need an alignment if you pull the upright unless you're REALLY careful to mark where the alignment bolt on the bottom is located on the upright.

As for the oil recs, thanks! I figured I'd be OK with a 5w-40, but wanted to be sure. Redline is a little over my budget at the moment for that car haha. I cringe when spending $6 a quart on my A4 for the 5w-50! I will swing through good 'ol walmart sometime this weekend and get it so I can change the oil and get the 'ol girl ready to head north again for turkey day.

Glad things are going well. I'm with ya that the 12v forum ain't what it used to be... but such is life.

Jretal

and will def do UOA on this car. Really need to do it with the A4 as well just to see how that motor is doing after 172k miles. Will make sure to take a sample of it when I change the oil in the next few weeks.

moribundman

Which would require another tool in addition.