jbsr20

Especially when it's cold out.

Is replacement a permanent fix? Or, will I be back to cleaning the new one by next winter?

kevcpA4 ( | )

on my Civic...

RKA

Seriously...I have a 98 Accord, and every so often it will randomly stall when I clutch in. It's mostly in cold weather, but it's happened in the summer long after the engine has warmed up. Problem is it might only happen 1-2 times per week. I don't want to buy a new IAC valve, but if cleaning it only buys me a few weeks, then I'll suck it up an order the part. So whats the deal with these IAC valves...known to be a PITA once the car gets up there in mileage?? Is it crankgase gases (oil vapor) that gums up the IAC valve?

jbsr20, can you detail how you're doing this cleaning? That may be the issue here. Kris Hansen has a decent how-to on his website for cleaning out the IAC valve. Are you actually removing it from the car, or attempting to clean it while it's still in the car? What sort of cleaning solvent are you using? How much are you applying? etc....

Ray993

'98.5 30V.

Had some trouble with one on old Coupe Quattro. After 2 cleanings it stopped working; needed a new one.

Repalce it and start doing a Techron fuel cleaner addition now and then.

RKA

I believe the 30V has a motor attached to the throttle plate to control idle air.

jbsr20

I think that is the "how to" I printed out the first time I did this. Not 100% sure though. Here is my process:

1. I totally remove the IACV from the car (usually takes 15 mins of grunting and groaning, scraped hands, and pinched fingers to wiggle it out).

2. I liberally spray (CRT?)carb cleaner or throttle body cleaner into the holes of the IACV. Then I cover the holes with my hand and shake the IACV like I'm making a mixed drink. Dump out the dirty fluid and repeat until fluid comes out clean. I wipe off the rubber seal on the car with a clean shop towel with no cleaners so I don't degrade the rubber.

3. Reinstall the IACV into the car. (usually takes 15 mins of grunting and groaning, scraped hands, and pinched fingers to wiggle it back in).

The last time I cleaned the valve I measured 9 ohms across the two terminals - which was within the 7-12 ohm acceptable range. Last time I also thought spraying a short burst of WD-40 after cleaning might help lube things up and help the valve work a bit better. In hindsight, I don't think that was a good idea as here it is about 4 weeks later, and I'm stalling in traffic again.

Sorry, can't help you with your stalling Honda issues - sounds very similar though.

Jeff

jbsr20

From what I've read in the past the 30v idle air is controlled differently. My issue is with a 2.8L 12V.

RKA

What I would try is a throttle body cleaner. Let it soak overnight if you have to. Get it good and clean, and don't use any other lubricants. Also, if you can, remove any vac lines or other hoses attached and try to clean them out as well. Maybe some moisture or gunk is working it's way into the IAC valve from somewhere??

If this second round doesn't cure the issue, consider getting a new valve. Don't throw away the old one though (at least not until you've verified that the new one works perfectly, and that the old one did indeed have an issue).

AudiMick

..there's a plastic cover on the bottom of the valve that you can pry off if you are carefull. Once you do this you can get to more of the valve. Reglue the cover back on afterwards.

Check the 12v forum also.

jbsr20

Also, how "careful" do I need to be when removing it? I imagine it will need some convincing with a large flathead screwdriver in order to pop it off...