Just did a search on ecs tuning brake line issues.
04-04-2003, 07:17 AM
#1
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Just did a search on ecs tuning brake line issues.
ECS tuning says in their instructions to zip tie the lines to the control arms. My thing is, why zip tie a freaking line in $1200 brake kit. Why not make the lines the correct length to begin with.
04-04-2003, 08:16 AM
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Ya I agree.... the stuff is cheap to buy
Spectre makes some with bonded braided steel...
Its a whopping $14-$19 for a 48" length.
Wonder if the stainless steel hoses can be added to the original connectors? Wonder what connectors we have to begin with. If I knew what connectors the A4 has I could make my own quite easily.
<img src="http://www.jegs.com/photos/86529204.jpg">
Apparently Earls also makes just the hose which is like $3 a foot ($27/10') and the connectors are like $6-$10 each.
<img src="http://members.ozemail.com.au/~earls/earls30.jpg">
<img src="http://members.ozemail.com.au/~earls/earls42.jpg">
If each hose is about 1-2 feet long. Then doing the front 2 hoses would be quite cheap. About $20 per hose for connectors and $6 per hose for the actual hose. So Say $30 per hose at most to make each one. More like $20 but still thats pretty good.
Its a whopping $14-$19 for a 48" length.
Wonder if the stainless steel hoses can be added to the original connectors? Wonder what connectors we have to begin with. If I knew what connectors the A4 has I could make my own quite easily.
<img src="http://www.jegs.com/photos/86529204.jpg">
Apparently Earls also makes just the hose which is like $3 a foot ($27/10') and the connectors are like $6-$10 each.
<img src="http://members.ozemail.com.au/~earls/earls30.jpg">
<img src="http://members.ozemail.com.au/~earls/earls42.jpg">
If each hose is about 1-2 feet long. Then doing the front 2 hoses would be quite cheap. About $20 per hose for connectors and $6 per hose for the actual hose. So Say $30 per hose at most to make each one. More like $20 but still thats pretty good.
04-04-2003, 08:21 AM
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You could have, but you may not want to...
First off, brake lines aren't something you want to screw around with. They're either made RIGHT, or they're trash. You definately don't want a hose end blowing off under heavy braking.
Second, lines you make yourself using parts from Earls, Aeroquip, or Goodrige will NOT be DOT-legal.
I make brake lines all the time for track cars, but I've been doing this for years, and I have the right tool to install the hose ends, plus these are track cars, not street cars, so the question of legality (and more importantly, liability,) is moot.
-- RK
Second, lines you make yourself using parts from Earls, Aeroquip, or Goodrige will NOT be DOT-legal.
I make brake lines all the time for track cars, but I've been doing this for years, and I have the right tool to install the hose ends, plus these are track cars, not street cars, so the question of legality (and more importantly, liability,) is moot.
-- RK
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04-04-2003, 08:36 AM
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Tie straping lines does NOT degrade a brake kit...
We do it on other manufactures kits even though some of the instructions do not say to. It is just a SAFE way of assureing that the lines stay in the proper place at all time. It's a common practice to do this in the tech world.
The lines are custom built for specific applcations, they are not just "laying around"
The lines are custom built for specific applcations, they are not just "laying around"
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ECS Tuning
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Tom
ECS Tuning
800/924-5172
40+ years & counting of tuning the finest automobiles
in the world, namely V/W & Audi
04-04-2003, 08:38 AM
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OK, if you insist of making yout own hoses...
There's some things you need to know.
First off, use AN-3 hose that's designed for brake applications (there's AN-3 hose that's not.) You want hose that's made of extruded Teflon with a stainless steel jacket thats bonded to the Teflon. Earl's sells this under the SpeedFlex name. This is the ONLY kind of hose you should be using.
Second, either buy a pre-assembled hose (one that already has AN-3 hose ends crimped onto the ends,) or buy the hose and cut it to length, and then install replacable hose ends, but this is where you're liable to screw things up. You need a tool to separate the stainless steel jacket from the Teflon (Earl's has it,) and you HAVE to install the brass insert correctly before screwing on the hose end. Mess this up and the hose WILL blow off the end.) Also, you HAVE to get the correct hose end for the kind of hose you're using. Hose ends are designed specifically for the kind of hose you're using (SpeedFlex or its equivalent.)
Use ONLY stainless steel hose ends and fittings! Aluminum fittings and ends are not designed for brake applications and will eventually fail.
Realize these hoses are tough, but they're not immortal. If the hose gets kinked - it's trash. Teflon will cold-flow at the kink and make a thin spot that will eventually blow out. If the braid gets worn (or worse yet, worn through,) its trash (Teflon has almost ZERO resistance to wear.)
Lastly, the stainless steel braid makes for an efficient file. It will abrade anything it rubs against. You can tie it down with zip-ties, or wrap it in plastic spiral wrap used for wiring bundles (I do both.)
Yes, you can save a bit on your lines doing this, but is it really worth it? I build my own lines because I install a new set yearly on my track car (preventave maintenance.) I also do it because SHOULD I have a line failure at the track, it's easily repaired -- something you can't do with pre-made hoses or hoses with crimped-on ends.
Let's be safe out there...
-- RK
First off, use AN-3 hose that's designed for brake applications (there's AN-3 hose that's not.) You want hose that's made of extruded Teflon with a stainless steel jacket thats bonded to the Teflon. Earl's sells this under the SpeedFlex name. This is the ONLY kind of hose you should be using.
Second, either buy a pre-assembled hose (one that already has AN-3 hose ends crimped onto the ends,) or buy the hose and cut it to length, and then install replacable hose ends, but this is where you're liable to screw things up. You need a tool to separate the stainless steel jacket from the Teflon (Earl's has it,) and you HAVE to install the brass insert correctly before screwing on the hose end. Mess this up and the hose WILL blow off the end.) Also, you HAVE to get the correct hose end for the kind of hose you're using. Hose ends are designed specifically for the kind of hose you're using (SpeedFlex or its equivalent.)
Use ONLY stainless steel hose ends and fittings! Aluminum fittings and ends are not designed for brake applications and will eventually fail.
Realize these hoses are tough, but they're not immortal. If the hose gets kinked - it's trash. Teflon will cold-flow at the kink and make a thin spot that will eventually blow out. If the braid gets worn (or worse yet, worn through,) its trash (Teflon has almost ZERO resistance to wear.)
Lastly, the stainless steel braid makes for an efficient file. It will abrade anything it rubs against. You can tie it down with zip-ties, or wrap it in plastic spiral wrap used for wiring bundles (I do both.)
Yes, you can save a bit on your lines doing this, but is it really worth it? I build my own lines because I install a new set yearly on my track car (preventave maintenance.) I also do it because SHOULD I have a line failure at the track, it's easily repaired -- something you can't do with pre-made hoses or hoses with crimped-on ends.
Let's be safe out there...
-- RK
04-04-2003, 08:41 AM
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Agreed.
My lines are custom lengths for the application, and I still tie 'em down.
Remember also, that the length of the line has to accomodate ALL possible movements of the suspension and the wheel (up and down, turning, etc...) A little extra length is a Good Thing. How would YOU like to pull your brake line apart just by making a tight U-turn?
-- Robert
Remember also, that the length of the line has to accomodate ALL possible movements of the suspension and the wheel (up and down, turning, etc...) A little extra length is a Good Thing. How would YOU like to pull your brake line apart just by making a tight U-turn?
-- Robert