BigEd

Yep, my new CA set is on order, now wondering if I should get a ball joint tool for the job.

It's been a while, hope everybody's doing fine.<ul><li><a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Ball-Joint-Puller-VW-Volkswagen-Audi-Repair-Kit-Tools_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ63703QQitemZ46414 09164QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW">click</a></li></ul>

BSK auf Arbeit

Similar to 3287a

This Universal tool is used to separate the ball joint from the spindle support arm.
It works on many domestic and import front wheel drive vehicles, and is adjustable for diffrent size ball joints.
Using the correct ball joint tool makes a tough job much easier.
Factory ball joints are pressed in tight, if you damage the ball joint, the situation gets ugly.
Two Stage Ball joint tool -Special steel, galvanized, for removing the ball pivots of steering arms, stabilizers etc..




Basic tools required for the job (aside from a good strong jack and stand), 18mm wrench, socket, ratchet, pry bar, ball joint tool (3287a) and penetrating oil.

Step One: Once you have safely jacked and secured the car, and removed the tire, using your 18mm box end wrench, remove the nut on the balljoint end. It may require some penetrant, and a little force. Long pattern wrenches are good for jobs like this.
You get a lot more leverage, and don't end up using pipes, or cheaters, etc..

This makes it possible to remove the joint without wanting to pull out the BFH, for which there is little room to give a good swing anyway.

Give it about 1/2 turn and the SHOULD joint pop out.

Next step is to remove the bolt that holds the inside on. Both sides are 18mm. An easy way is to use a shallow socket to turn the bolt, holding the nut with the wrench. Or use an 18mm deep offset wrench, which would work just fine. The nut usually sits quite deep in the subframe.

Once you get the nut off, you need to get the bolt out. The factory service manual says to lower the subframe at the rear to get the bolt out.
You don't absolutely have to-
What you end up doing however is wiggling the bolt out, sliding it under the fuel lines a little. It is not easy, but it's easier than lowering the subframe in many cases.

If you were to lower the subframe, you may need an alignment.
- might consider getting one, as you never know how much you may have changed the toe or camber by replacing a control arm - but there is a little bit of play in the pivot, and you never know exactly where it was when you started.

Getting the bolt to slide back into the new arm for some reason was not as hard as taking it out of the old one. Be VERY careful with the fuel lines (passenger side) or brake lines (driver side).

You will need to (somehow) preload the suspension before you can torque the bolt on the inner end. You might use a hydraulic bottle jack on a concrete block to push up on the bottom of the stud for the front lower control arm. (Your floor jack might be a good idea too) -Jack it till it starts to lift the car off of your stand a tiny little bit. Be very careful -The jack could slip, which would cause the suspension to slam down. If your head was in the way, it MAY leave a mark.

(Torque the bolt to APPROX. 66 lb/ft +1/4 turn)

Torque the ball joint nut to APPROX. 74 lb/ft. You may need to hold the stud with an allen wrench, to keep it from turning while you start the nut on.

BigEd

<ul><li><a href="http://www.kris-hansen.com/Audi/control_arm.htm">to this</a></li></ul>

por911

If I was going to go the American or aftermarket tool route, the OTC 6297 might be a better way to go. Cheap tools yield poor results and often screw the job up which leads to a disabled car.
If you can go that route, Kukko makes great tools. I have many, and highly recommend them.

BigEd

thank you. I might just borrow a similar tool from my local Advance Auto Parts

Kris Hansen

The 3287a is made by Kukko... It's REALLY nice... =)

CK:1.8T+Rabbitâ„¢

The "mouth", if you will, was not large enough to get around the ball joint stud. I bought a Kukko and it saved the day.

Kris Hansen

mention the source, as he said he would.