Mr.Fox5.0

So I have to admit.. In the 12 years working on cars I have never done an AWD clutch on an A4 Quattro. I am familiar with Japanese and Domestics (US) and have a stout understanding of automotive mechanics period but would just like a heads up to save time on the job. I am about to tackle this for a favor/$$ friend deal. Anyone here have some advice for me? Is there a locking mechanism that binds the clutch to the flywheel like some of the other imports? What trans fluid do these suckers take? I basically just need the ins and outs of this project - much appreciated.

Thanks guys.

Audi0s

Use any decent trans fluid as long as its gl-4. From what Ive heard certain GL-5s eat awy at the brass synchros. Its a big job, but I dont think its terribly tough, just alot of crap to take out. If you get stuck separating the trans from engine, sometimes theres a bolt inside the axle flange that needs to be removed. But not 100%, that might be on a TT. I remember removing an AWD unit on a TT I did a clutch on bc there was a hidden bolt inside. Also check the forum resources, there might be a writeup in there. Or search, youre not the first to attack this job.

HBAudi

The A4 (B5) is a much more robust chassis than what the Japanese produce, but the job is not a difficult one to complete.

Before you begin, have the appropriate tools such as XZN-style sockets to remove the drive axle bolts. You might also want to consider replacing the front wheel bearings while the axles are removed and inspect the drive shaft centre bearing as these are also subject to frequent failure.

If you replace the rear crankshaft seal, housing and gasket, refill the cooling system with coolant to VW/Audi GL12 specification.

Audi use a dual-mass flywheel with a clutch driven disc that does not have springs to cushion the clutch engagement. Be sure the flywheel friction surface is free of any significant wear and 'hot spots' or the flywheel will fail with the new friction disc and pressure plate.

Some members suggest using an aftermarket clutch with a single mass flywheel, but unless the vehicle is being used for racing purposes, stick with the OEM or OEM replacement clutch assembly as clutch life and driveability will be closer to what the driver is used to. Your friend will also not have to listen to 'gear-rattle' at idle!

If you intend to change the gearbox fluid, obtain an XZN-style 16mm socket to remove the 'tamper-proof' drain plug and a 17mm Allen socket to remove the filler plug. Use fluid to GL4 specification in the gearbox; the rear differential can use either GL4 or GL5 fluid, depending on the climate and type of use.

Hope this helps!

Mr.Fox5.0

Perfect response there HB. Its really not that bad.. Different for sure but with the right tools it comes apart... I must admit, having to stick a lug bolt back in the rotor to pull the CV axle got me, but thats no biggie...I just had my wife step on the brake with the bolt and it came right out... Anyway, I seriously appreciate the heads up. Your post was most informative. The left side control arm bushings are trash and now I have to remove the whole strut to replace them... Not only that but they had to be ordered. But other than that.. so far so good.

Mr.Fox5.0

Okay... I am at the shifter linkage... any tips?

4Driver4

Did you do any searching or look in the Tech Section? IIRC, there are at least two or three write-ups on this job.

Pete@ECSTuning

Found this link below to be pretty helpful!

Audi 1.8T clutch replacement.


Good luck!

Pete

Mr.Fox5.0

Thanks for the link. I checked it out and found that it was easier not to remove the airbox and o2 stuff. I just did disconnected the 3 bolts where the flange was. It looks like it will clear just fine. The starter was easier than the article made it sound.. the linkage is next... Hopefully its as easy as this article says... It looks like a pain due to no space anywhere... but whats new with this job? I know this gets said a lot on these car boards but I seriously appreciate yalls (texas lingo sorry) help. I wanted to hear it from enthusiasts who care, not just anyone.

HBAudi

Just in case you may not be aware, be sure to replace the flywheel bolts and outer CV joint end bolt with new ones. Many bolts on the vehicle are 'one-use' type bolts and must be replaced with new ones to protect from failure due to stretching. The copper nuts on the exhaust manifold to pipe/turbo should also be replaced along with the flange gasket.

Be sure to correctly and evenly torque the XZN bolts on the gearbox axle flange as these can become loose and fall out or shear off when they become loose.

When you tighten the large bolt going through the wheel flange into the outer CV joint, it is best to remove the centre cap from the road wheel before installing the wheel so the bolt can be correctly torqued with the vehicle on the ground. Once the bolt is correctly torqued, you can snap the centre cap back into place on the wheel.

This may also be the best time to replace the clutch hydraulic cylinders, depending on the age and miles/kilometres on the vehicle as the clutch slave cylinder is not easy to access once the gearbox and axle flange shields are in place. Pay close attention to the flexible section of the hydraulic pipe as this can also fail over time and replacement is 'fiddly' with the gearbox in place.

Mr.Fox5.0

Okay.. new issue. The plastic ring in the middle of the flywheel. My flywheel guy says he can not resurface it with that ring due to it being higher than the actual contacting surface that the clutch rides on. The flywheel has 3 or 4 hot spots in it and in every other car I did, that means premature failure of the clutch. I would hate to send this guy somewhere for a new unit... What do you guys do about this? Thanks again!