Need some help...
#1
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...from people who've done their own oil changes. I read the tech and ran a search and am somewhat confident I can do this. I've changed oil in my last car, but not my Audi. Since my service intervals are 10K apart now, I see no reason why I should leave oil in there for that long...even if it is synthetic.
My question is, can you give me some of your impressions and insights into this? I'm going after work to pick up some tools, as I don't have any here and are at home in SD. Other than the torque wrench, what else do I need? Can I do this w/out having to jack up the car? Anyone in the LA area want to walk me through this? Anything else I should remember? I'm going to do this tomorrow morning. Thanks all.
My question is, can you give me some of your impressions and insights into this? I'm going after work to pick up some tools, as I don't have any here and are at home in SD. Other than the torque wrench, what else do I need? Can I do this w/out having to jack up the car? Anyone in the LA area want to walk me through this? Anything else I should remember? I'm going to do this tomorrow morning. Thanks all.
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because when you start the engine, you'll run it dry for 10 seconds while the filter is filling up with oil. Quick change place actually told me this...so it pays to talk to these guys sometimes while they're working on your car. They used to drool over mine ;^)
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by moving the coolant resovior?
You wouldn't happen to have the Mobil 1 oil filter part number would ya?
Thanks.
=)
You wouldn't happen to have the Mobil 1 oil filter part number would ya?
Thanks.
=)
#5
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But it's been 9 months since I've had to buy one of these flters. Look in the book at the store you're going to get it at...they have a list. Most Audis are the -205 filter because it is so damn long.
And yes, I've heard you can get at it from the top. Take a look and see. If you can get in there, and have the right leverage to loosen/tighten the filter, you might not even have to move the coolant tank. It's only 3-4 bolts anyway, so it's not a big deal for most.
And yes, I've heard you can get at it from the top. Take a look and see. If you can get in there, and have the right leverage to loosen/tighten the filter, you might not even have to move the coolant tank. It's only 3-4 bolts anyway, so it's not a big deal for most.
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#10
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Just messy. You'll need an 18mm? socket for the drain plug. You might also need an oil filter wrench if the dealership really cranked the old filter on. If you can get access to some ramps like the Rhinos (they work with lowered cars) it's much easier but removing the washer fluid resevoir might work.
Trey
Santorin 99.5 1.8TMS APR
Trey
Santorin 99.5 1.8TMS APR