New Castrol oil at Audi dealers, SLX Pro
12-26-2007, 12:21 PM
#14
AudiWorld Super User
Thread Starter
Ideal, since oem filter is rated 30kkm/18kmi. I change on seasonal schedule, 2-3-4 times a year...
fit that into your anticipated miles, changing and extracting alternately about 6000 miles. Use the same oil for 100% compatibility and it's a awesome service plan for an extra $20-$25 a pop. Remember that in a pinch or whatever, the 1.8t filter is accessable from above, below the coolant tank. To answer you specificly, there is someone here who did nothing but extractions for like 80k, pulled the pan for a gasket leak and it was clean inside.
So, in theory you could do all extractions, grab the filter from above and never pull the belly pan. IN other engines, you have to go under the car to grab the filter, so why not drain....I don't run a belly pan anyway. Extractor is ideal mid-winter freshing. I schedlue change to get trough winter w/o a change like Dec-Mar.
So, in theory you could do all extractions, grab the filter from above and never pull the belly pan. IN other engines, you have to go under the car to grab the filter, so why not drain....I don't run a belly pan anyway. Extractor is ideal mid-winter freshing. I schedlue change to get trough winter w/o a change like Dec-Mar.
12-27-2007, 04:55 PM
#19
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I use the Quaker State 5W-30
and a Fram filter.
This stuff is cheap and easy to change. The whole lore about synthetic is not particularly helpful for a street car that you plan to keep for over 100k mi.
I have two rules:
1) Never delay an oil change. Even a few hundred miles as this is when the sludge and crud problems happen.
2) Never shut down a heat soaked engine. A few minutes of neighborhood driving is all that is needed to cool everything enough to shut the engine down, else the same problems as in 1) plus 'coking' the oil in the turbo.
As for an oil change schedule I use:
0-50k mi : every 5000 mi
50k - 100k mi : every 4000 mi
over 100k mi : every 3000 mi
Never had an oil problem in any car I or others I help ever owned.
This stuff is cheap and easy to change. The whole lore about synthetic is not particularly helpful for a street car that you plan to keep for over 100k mi.
I have two rules:
1) Never delay an oil change. Even a few hundred miles as this is when the sludge and crud problems happen.
2) Never shut down a heat soaked engine. A few minutes of neighborhood driving is all that is needed to cool everything enough to shut the engine down, else the same problems as in 1) plus 'coking' the oil in the turbo.
As for an oil change schedule I use:
0-50k mi : every 5000 mi
50k - 100k mi : every 4000 mi
over 100k mi : every 3000 mi
Never had an oil problem in any car I or others I help ever owned.