Pete@ECSTuning

Did this work? I directly wired my two rear speakers into my stock harness. sure it is more wiring, but I was running a remote wire and power wire for my small amp.

97AuA4di

I will post results whenever I receive the product (hopefully tomorrow!)

97AuA4di

Frustrating when you keep spending money on things that do NOT work. Rear speakers still without sound. I checked to see if they still work when I put in the stock radio - they do. The new wiring harness I purchased from ebay is not a solution. I tried to make-shift it into working, and that proved unsuccessful.

Pete@ECSTuning

I thought so. You are going to have to run speaker wire directly from your rear speakers and solder it into the head unit's harness.

That is what I did, not a big deal, I hid them under the center console along with an amp wire, remote wire, and amp signal wire.

AudiAgs

Hmmm...What am I missing here? why run the new wires if they already exist? Seems like he just needs to find the ones that run to the back...then he can splice into them. You can get some cable splice connectors at any Radio Shack... This problem can't be as hard as it seems...what are you using for a head unit anyway? I thought you were using a stock head unit...is it an aftermarket such as Sony, Pioneer,etc.? If its an Audi unit why doesn't the existing harness work? Is it a different model head unit than what was originally in the car?

I remember the Bently manual has some color codes for the wires...I can try to dig those up if you are having trouble determining which wires to tap into.

97AuA4di

I am using an aftermarket unit other than stock. The 20-pin connector is my biggest issue as you can see from the previous posts. The rear audio (left and right) lays in those wires.

97AuA4di

Hey guys I have had a breakthrough!

Okay, so the yellow connector (one of the 3 that make up the 20 pin connector) is the outlet for the rear speakers. ALL of the wires correspond to the rear audio.

What I did was cut the wires from the yellow connector (brown/red x 2, blue x 2 , and white). I spliced each of the wires and directly soldered them to the wires from the receiver output. The brown/red correspond to the rear right (+ and -), the blue correspond to the rear left (+ and -), and white corresponds to the amp power.

Wow, what a difference it makes in my ride experience with the rear audio back - WOO! I hope this brief/non-specific guide helps someone else!

AudiAgs

You just can't cruise with out proper tunage! Glad it worked out for you!

Pete@ECSTuning

Yeah, I'm sure it will. Good going!