Ginstervrt

I really hope that is all it is, but what would revving the engine do to make the controls work?

I am in no way saying you guys are wrong, I just dont fully understand hvac/etc, so just trying to figure out what leads you guys to point to the controls being the issue?

tommyleea

Heater core is clear, blend door is working properly, temp reads normal. Heater core inlet hose is hot, and outlet hose is not. It appears that everything is working up to the heater core. I don't think your car will overheat with the cap off if everything is working properly. Circulation will probably be sufficient for the oonditions you are in...ie no traffic, no load etc....

Ginstervrt

I wondered if it would actually boil, but I was reading of people burping the system in such a fashion.

I don't mind ripping the dash apart to do the heater core, i just want to be sure thats the issue before I do it, kind of a lot of work if it doesn't resolve the issue. If I rev the motor, and the heat starts to work, the outlet hose does get just as hot, it just cools back down fairly quickly. There is nothing leaking onto the passenger side floor, nor is there any greasy crap on the windshield, which are the usual signs of a bad core correct? Should I try and stand the damn thing on the trunk and bleed it then? Just not sure what else to try, I will try the spare controls I have, but logically, I can't seem to see why that would be the issue here, but it doesnt hurt.

Any other ideas?

dwoodsback2

had the same prob on mine try changing the cabin air filter

Ginstervrt

I'll check it tomorrow, but when i pulled the box it sits in to do the control arms last week, it looked pretty good.

what would cause one hose to be hot, and the other only warm? there was not a drop of gunk that came out when i flushed the core, only perfect g12, until it was just water, and seemed completely unrestricted. did it in through the outlet first, then through the inlet for a few seconds. i've been reading through post after post, going through all the same things ive already tried, just to find out no one ever posts whether they solved it or not haha!

dwoodsback2

My prob was an open thermostat but was still luke warm until i changed the filter

Ginstervrt

so im most likely doing the thermostat then. ive obviously got flow, i believe the controls are working, so i have been thinking the next logical step was the stat, but everyone else has been leaning towards bleeding or controls.

4Driver4

I'll say it again:
Not bled correctly.

Try bleeding it cold with compressed air.

4Driver4

These two comments do not add up. How could have an issue with the t-stat or controls that can be alleviated by engine rpm?

Heat at idle but not when driving down the road? Bad t-stat.
What sort of testing has been done on the controls?

Do not make this molehill into a mountain.

tommyleea

What temp is your gauge running at?